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I was referring to if you're using coilovers the top plate where it allows the strut shot through can be moved up to allow the body to lower farther with the same strut travel
james- if you have a cess to make the plates happen I can send you the material to cut it out and all that let me know
the strut lowering reinforcement plates or the lower monoball joint plate
between you and Ginseng...
its becoming very difficult to resist the urge to do a 5spd swap!
keep up the awesome work man!
If I ever did a 5speed wbody swap I would use the F23 from a Jbody for sure, you can get a torsen style diff for those if you wanted, but I really love clutch types for racing and weekend cars for sure (putting one in my honda CRX eventually).
Look me up at the Wbody meet would love to cruise around in this thing for a minute!
that cup gets welded into a slightly oval hole in the plate at the angle of the knuckle/monoball pin
picture a ring with three holes for the LCA bolts instead of three rock's fer the old lady
the Teflon or steel/steel monoball is then popped into the sleeve and the snap ring installed
12$ each cup and up to 23 for each ball
our 1" (16) series cups and joints weren't a whole lot more but you need spacer or alignment sleeves for the larger ball opening with the 3/4" monoball pins on the bottom of the knuckle.
the thing is I didn't like the added leverage at the knuckle taper with the relatively weak oe aluminum knuckle so we went with 4 dorman steel knuckles
Last edited by Turbocharged400sbc; 04-04-2015 at 09:24 PM.
I am definetly going to take you up on that. I've been working on the car all day and can't really doing the thinking this requires right now.
I've never used a monoball joint before so I'm a bit uneducated in what to use in this setup.
Do you know the weight difference between the steel and aluminum knuckles? I wonder if it would be better to machine the aluminum knuckles and press in some sort of steel sleeve to prevent it from wallowing out?
I'm going to get some sleep and come back to this with a fresh brain tomorrow.
Yea I need some pics to get a good idea. I get the concept and all but I need to know where exactly the bearing sleeve needs to be to make measurements
So, for the roll center correction I would be looking at getting:
2x - FK Rod Ends CPW12 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-cpw12/overview/
2x - FK Precision Wide Series Spherical Bearings WSSX12T - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-wssx12t
2x - UB Machine 40-4921 - http://ubmachine.com/balljointspins.html (are these the right ones?)
2x - LCA to Monoball adapter
Am I missing anything here?
And for the bump steer correction I would be looking at:
2x UB Machine 40-4203 - http://ubmachine.com/balljointspins.html
1x Baer Brakes 3301011 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ba...exahoC0bzw_wcB (any idea if these will work with the UB Machine monoball adapters?
And then the dorman steel knuckles. Am I on the right track here?
And for an update...
Things are finally starting to come together. Mocked everything up so I could check for belt lengths and start the wire tuck.
Not sure what I was doing here:
My friends Joe and Jim stopped by to paint my crank pulley and polish my supercharger bolts. No standing around at the shop, I put people to work
I think it looks badass with the belts/accessories like this:
Made a heat shield to protect the wiring from the heat of the crossover pipe:
My buddy Trevor made me a sweet idler pulley because I was complaining about the plastic one I had on there. It came out sweet! We're thinking about doing our own 8 rib setup for the sc belt.
IC reservoir will live here, battery is getting moved to the trunk:
New input shaft bearing/seal pressed into the bellhousing:
Installed the old clutch and pressure plate. No sense in testing out the new seal on a new $800 clutch:
Completed torque strut setup:
Engine bay pretty much finished:
Bad ass brass shift bushings I had Trevor make for me to replace the worn nylon ones. This will get rid of whatever side to side play the shift lever had:
And now to spend the rest of my life on the wiring harness:
Those mounts man I hope don't Crack at the aluminium. Especially when the driveline shock of a manual does. I wish the best for this but you might wana think about a failsafe in the event that mount cracks
Fantastic work. Really like that pulley you made
Would you mind going more into detail with as many pictures as you got for that input shaft bearing/seal fix?
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