is that for that DOD delete? or something?
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is that for that DOD delete? or something?
No I could allow DoD to work with this if I really wanted. But it's thinner than the ls4 one and has better oil passages. Plus I relocated my OPSU to oil filter instead of on top. So when I finish the oil passage an aluminium plate and rig weld it
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You'll want to dig farther down in the passage, make the "floor" lower
I was going to. I only had two dremel bits and the tray destroyed them. I'm gonna go get some metal dremel bits tomorrow. All though, cutting the rivets off is the easiest part
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I forgot I used a regular drill bit to get the majority of the material out and then used a dremel to smooth out
I started with drill but. But I well
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Tomorrow morning I just gotta finish the oil passage and knock the rest of the rivets out
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...pswqf8chn7.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psqdzhnfvv.jpg
And damaged the gasket....fu*k my life. Can't get a replacement gasket either
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...pspi2ayckt.jpg
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Well since zzp won't replace their shifty ball joint I'm going to go pick up some moot ones....not even had them a year and my passenger ball joint is shot
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And bam. Done.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7olk51x3.jpg
Now off to the shop for some good ole tig welding
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So I got a couple question....would moving my coolant over flow tank and windshield washer tank (different square tank and different pump...but easy swap) to the trunk work fine as long as there's no leaks. I see no problem doing
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i would not run the coolant tank that far, but the washer tank can be relocated for sure.
not sure if it will fit your year car, but the 97-98 cars have coolant tank thats tucked away in the corner by the factory air box.
Well I found a nice coolant tank for 50 bucks that is square and comes with a pump that can be replaced.
As for the coolant tank I don't see any problems it could cause. Cause when engine warms up it can still overflow into it then when it cools down it can still pull coolant back in
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But what happens if it starts a leaking coolant all in your trunk and interior?
The coolant lines wouldn't be in the car except for about a foot in the trunk. Obviously once I install it I'd check it often to make sure no leaks....then it should be fine.
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Seems like more hassle then it's worth.
I used a cheapo $10 universal plastic tank from AutoZone...just mounted it up against the front next to the diagonal brace, which would be directly in front of where the stock airbox would have been. I ran the hose above the rad fans in the factory harness as well, all tucked away clean. Worked good for me.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...nebaydec11.jpg
Edit* Don't mind hose placement; I was just testing it out.
you got all that room now where your battery used to be, move your new coant tank there.
http://i.imgur.com/WtktKGN.jpg
It doesn't fit well. My catch cans are going there and I'm gonna see if I can find a way to fit coolant there
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There's plenty of room after that gay gm overflow tank get tossed for catch cans in that area I managed to fit nitrous solenoids, and two catch cans there and still able to pull my intake out with out hitting anything. Regardless it'll work either side just try to keep your lines short and direct as possibleQuote:
Originally Posted by DirtDog
Rgr I'm gonna mount the catch cans today and go pick up some supplies from oreillys for hooking them up
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