Thread: J-Liss Soon to be self tuned-corn fed stock w-body.

But before all that, it needs work.

Ok, just picked up a 1997 GTP S/C for 500 buckaroo's with 67k on the odmodeter....That is the good.

The good:

Has guage pod with autometer guages...(not hooked up) lolz
Clean interior
Clean exterior with some body damage on driver door.
motor has 67k on it
runs good
car is LABOR intensive, not $$$ intensive. which i will be doing myself.


The slightly bad.

Needs:

1. Oil pan leak fixed/Gasket (Jb welb is what im looking at so far)
2. New suspension All around
3. Ignition is ghetto rigged to start with a switch dangling by the floor panel.
4. Heater doesn't work
5. Needs Battery/Alt
6. S/C needs to be re-oiled and new coupler
7. Needs need motor mounts/torque mounts
8. S/C belt is hitting the coolant reservoir because the mounts BLOW


The plan/Order list:

New mounts: Received
S/c oil/coupler: Ordered
tstat 160*: received
aluminum 90* elbows: need to order
Lower intake manifold gaskets: received
flush out all Fluids put new.
Fix all Leaks.


after the BS:

grab Hp tuners give myself a base stock tune.
Bolt it with bolt on's.
smaller pulley
Re-tune. for Profit.


Stay tuned pics to come of the fail over tonight/weekend.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Skip the 160 thermo, thats way too cold, go stock or 180.

160 should be fine i would think especially in chicago summers. Thermal heat along with s/c heat, the cooler wont be too bad, and MPG shouldnt suffer as bad as many may think. Heat has the same adverse effect as low coolant. 160 is fine, and keeps from having to run fans.

But on the contrary, e85 LOVES heat, i got 3 steps colder plugs, i need to go back to 1, and start there and see if 3 is even needed.

Originally Posted by AjL227

I agree. Thermostat is a terrible idea.
Your mileage will suffer and your heat will be awful.

If you're pulling the engine for the new lower engine mount, why not cam for larger profit?

Also, you won't be feeding anything other than the petting zoo goats corn until you get larger injectors. 60#/hr +
With that, you'll need to take into consideration your fuel pump and the wiring harness to it.
You can get a larger gauge wire fuel pump harness from RaceTronix.
Don't forget to change the fuel filter after the first E85 tank, and again in 2 weeks.
All the gunk in the bottom of the gas tank will be flushed out from the alcohol content and will clog the filter quick.

Yup, im aware, the ethanol content pretty much acts like a cleaner in the fuel tank. pump gas is a nasty thing, TONS of impurities inside, which is why the gas tank if ever pulled you can see them for yourself. Put the stock injectors will be fine with a pre-mix which i will be starting slow mixtures and see where i can get to before i reace max IDC. My tests have proven that even 2 gallons on 15 gallon tank and prevent KR from appearing. So by just mixing i may be not seeing MAYBE a net loss of maybe 10-15 whp. Not having to mess with anything or having to deal with the ethanol gas tank cleaning.

i must be having a slow moment. What do you mean knock sensors engage at 160*?

I'm open to reason. What are the adverse effects from 160-180 tstat? Any logs or anything?

A simple search will show that a 180 stat is best all around when fans are tuned right for it. I'm in Chicago also you don't need the 160...

Originally Posted by Oxfire

Knock sensors detect ****ty combustion and pull timing to save your engine from 'sploding. They engage at 165* (corrected by mr.BlueGui). Either way no one needs a 160* thermostat...your car won't benefit, and you won't benefit whatsoever, especially in the winter when you'll freeze your nutsack off. Get a 180 or stay stock.

you know the whole winter thing is true, that can play side to side with too thick of oil.

i mean i havent installed it yet, but im confused on how the knock sensor would sense KR because a lower thermal wall temp? has this been proven that the lower temp has adverse effects on the cylinder wall temp to effect combustion? if spark and fuel is dialed in 20* diff cant possibly do anything. i know KR is tuned for specific pitch to hear KR and pull timing, say the cylinder walls are hot and pre-igniting the combustion before the spark plugs do. If 180 is proven im fine with sticking a 180 in there i just want to hear WHY 160 would do any damage or timing be pulled besides car taking longer to get to operating temp.


edit* i could see the car running rich all the time from being cooler, has anyone logged best operating temp to be? is this why you guys conclude 180?

Originally Posted by 02 WS6 TA

It's not that the knock sensor will read KR, but rather that it won't. Trust me, and this is my only serious post of the day.

i went and got a 180. But just how will it not see KR? KR is by sound not temp.

They do not engage or turn on until 160/165f temp is reached, meaning anything before your car can be doing 7* of knock and theres nothing the pcm is doing about it.

The 160 is not needed, With stock stat and fan settings I was always running 215~F temps during the hot chicago summers this year. With just the 180, I hardly went over 205, thats without touching the fan settings. Alot of people say that the 180 is perfect with the right fan settings, me myself I am perfectly happy with 200F.

If your wanting to keep things cool, dont do this and just get a intercooler. They run about $500-650 on here for used systems.

Originally Posted by dsmuts

With my 180* thermostat the hottest my engine has ever got is 195* On the hottest day of the summer.

SAme here. This summer in JUne we were in Key West for 3 days, even with the a/c, sitting in traffic (crowded), I never saw over 205!