Build Thread: Addicted to L67's~updated 4/6/2013

Holiday shopping, and a cut back on overtime is leading to a slow down on the build... Getting more and more into the 3.8L supercharged motor now and really having an urge to sell my daily driver beater from Michigan (99 Century) and get a nice rust free car from Georgia. Really would like to get a black Regal GS, so I have a feeling this will not be my last build thread ;). In fact I am getting into the cars again so bad I am having these strange urges to sell my Yamaha FZ1 (other daily driver/toy) to further my funding! Sad thing is I just finished making the bike the way I want it, and invested a good amount into it along the way of course.

Motor reconstruction as it sits so far.
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...EAE6484C96.jpg

preparing to reassemble the first head. stainless exhaust valves, comp cams #105 springs, valve retainer locks, modified titanium retainers, and Vitan valve stem seals.
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...EADA6B249A.jpg

New vs. Old
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...EAE19DB234.jpg

The new components installed!
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...EAEBC10EA7.jpg

Lookin good boss.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88formula

Hey thanks Matt! Sorry for making a new thread earlier...:(

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When theres a build thread going on, it gets people interested. Its already on page five.

damn straight it gets us interested...especially people like me that are still learning to do things on cars...so every little bit helps and its interesting

This is a cool build thread. Great job on the entire thing.

Started recreating the ZZP supercharger pulley puller I have rented today. Made some blue prints, and wrote a program for the plasma cutter we have... Since we don't stock 1" aluminum that means I can't get it for free :P so I decided to use 1/2" stainless steel. Also this will not be an exact copy, just a functional duplicate since I do not have access to a mill.
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...A7C9A00746.jpg
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...A7D017E5D2.jpg
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...A7D6231BD1.jpg

looks like somebody else could gear up some engine/trans mount spacers....love the quality of your work

Are you just replacing the valves without getting a valve job done on the heads? Did you check the heads for cracks? Now is the time to do all that, I thought I had a good set of L32 heads and I had a couple cracks. Good progress

Some new shop toys I picked up at a yard sale today, 150 psi 33 gallon craftsman air compressor, and a craftsman service cart full of tools and I got it all for $160 :) so that means I should have air power soon! http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...110E1DADC7.jpgAnd just for fun a picture of my bike and step dads 2011 mustang sitting in the garage.http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...1110D1CD4A.jpgSome more pics of my bikehttp://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...ECA7F1CE71.jpghttp://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...EC96CFDD66.jpghttp://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...ECAEB0764C.jpgHand made shorty pipehttp://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...16402E6FCF.jpgI have like 4 different pipes for the bikes, I like a variety lol

I wish i could find a deal like that on a compressor.

Got my ARP head studs and SS header bolts, plus Comp Cams reusable rocket bolts today. I have a question though, all I can find on the install guide is to torque the rocker bolts to 23lbs... That seems light for such a critical bolt, is it standard practice to use a little loctite on these?
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...380130E928.jpg

Do not use loctite unless specifically instructed to do so. Any thread compound will alter the torque value, so it is customarily mentioned in instructions relating to #s when required.

Thanks, so is it also correct that the ARP head studs are only torqued 10 lbs into the block?

That does seem low, but who am I to say. I'd call ARP to verify.

Everywhere I have read says torque the stud into the block to 10 lbs, then Torque procedure when installing the nut is 40, 60, 80, 90, and then check again later with a follow up 90 lbs. ft.

The pattern which you follow is

5136
7428

I thought the head studs only got put finger tight into the block with teflon tape

i just snug the studs in the block... it doesnt really matter.

You want to make the torque sequence have as little jumps as possible, and I prefer the final torque to be about 80.

Thanks for the info. I was just referencing a guide on here that people have to me to use.
ARP states 70 lbs final torque..

So now I am looking at my head gaskets... The holes for the coolant passages are tiny. And both gaskets are identical, making it impossible for both sides to have the end marked "front" facing the front of the motor. Plus there is a good amount of overhang off the block. Can anyone clear this confusion up for me?

Rockers installed
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FD2B8A057.jpg

Head studs torqued
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FD6311791.jpg

First set of lifters installed
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FD9938F27.jpg

Waiting for the head gasket
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FDCA5991F.jpg

Head gasket 'correctly?' Placed
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FE006F338.jpg

Opposite side of head gasket
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...3FE3FFE3EF.jpg

Nice build. I have a question irrelevant to anything else, but are you using one of those "electronic clip onto ratchet torque things"? Is it accurate?