Thread: Our new-to-us 2006 GXP

for the keyless remote, some soldering might do the trick. worked on mine.

the HUD dash piece. mine is also cracked and i need to replace it. its not too difficult to get off. and as long as you are somewhat careful you wont brake anything else. but you cant be too gentle when trying to get the dash pieces off because some can be harder than others.

for the spare, you will need to make sure its the right size and everything especially for the bolts or it wont work.

and for the resonator dont replace it with a straight pipe because it will be droney in the cabin. just get a glasspack as the replacement it will give you more sound without drone. and they are real cheap.

If you want more sound, your better off just replacing the mufflers with aftermarket ones.

I'm sure LS1tech's LS4 section might have some better reveiws as to what may sound better.

Originally Posted by Cocor

I have an 05 Gxp and will soon be deleting the mufflers. I did a resonator delete on my 02 GTP and it sounded great. I've seen videos of a res delete on the ls4, but it sounded raspy. Too much like a rice burner with a fart can on it.

Delete the mufflers and you'll have drone city.

Not to clog the OP thread, but most tend to stay away from chambered mufflers because of the drone, not sure how they are on V8 grand prixs. I'm sure some research into the topic will help you decide better.

Good looking GXP. You should look into the magnaflow cat back. It sounds good on these cars. You may also want to head over to the LS4 section on ls1tech.

Originally Posted by 81X11

Got a few questions right off the bat. Only one keyless remote works. I figured it was a bad battery, but nope, with a new battery it's still dead. Do I need to re-program it?...
...As for the keyless fob...what breaks?

I don't know alot about the exhaust on the GXPs but I do know broken remotes. It IS possible you need to have it re-programmed. If the battery went completely dead and the buttons were pushed it could have reset the chip inside. Firstly I would take a nice wide flathead and pry it open. There should be a notch toward the bottom of the remote. Once open it will most likely look like this.



If you notice the metal piece around the battery, it will be soldered in 3 placed. Top Dead Center, and one on each side that actually go through the chip module and are soldered on both sides. Commonly once of the sides comes loose, tension pulls it and the middle up and it fails once the connection is lost. If this is the case, if you have some solder, and iron and a steady hand, you can try and reset the connections and then re-program. If this doesn't work or you don't like the idea of this, you have to replace it.

If the connections are still good, then just re-program, if that doesn't work... *shrug*

So I've washed the new toy four times since Saturday, and it hasn't even rained. Also removed the goofy vent-things from the windows....looks better!

Been reading a lot on these cars and lots of people reccomended removing the large resonator from the exhaust. As purchased the car had a nice V8 rumble but in most cases when driving the engine was dead quiet. Well went to Taylor Muffler and had the mod done. Great update! For $40 it now sounds much better at startup, idle, and when accelerating, but is still nice and quiet on the highway at speed.

I got my first chance to take a good look at the underside of the car at the muffler shop. No leaks or standout issues, but I will say that it does show more discoloration than a normal Texas car. This car has spent it's life in Houston, and while that's better than salt-slush, the moist gulf-coast air shows that this is not an Austin/Dallas/San Antonio car. It's not bad at all...but it's not as clean as my Roady was and Ram is when you get under it.

Here's pics from the muffler shop:


Resonator removed:


Will clean up the underside soon. Not bad but not as clean as it should be:



Heavy-duty subframe for the 5.3 LS4 V8


Pipe welded in place of resonator



She rumbles now! My 10-year-old Eddie filmed this...hahaha. Click the pic to hear the exhaust with the resonator removed.


Had some fun on a few back roads coming back from Taylor. This is a neat toy!





GXP-exclusive Alcoa wheels. 18x8 in the front, 18x7 in the back. WEIRD!


Heads-up display. Shows speed, turn signals, radio stations, compass, outside temp, and more. Fun gadget



GXP 160mph gauge cluster


This car is distracting me from my Cutlass work and wagon search, but it sure is a fun distraction!

-Mike

verry nice

Nice pics, glad you're enjoying the car. Did you happen to find out anything on the FOBs?

Originally Posted by matt5112

How is the subframe heavy duty?

Haters gonna Hate ROFL.

Seriously tho, Matt is right, the same subframe is used in the V6s and the 5.3L. And it is just aluminum, so don't hit it on anything hard lol

Originally Posted by matt5112

I'm curious, perhaps there was a shortcoming that GM addressed, but as far as I can see, the structure appears to be the same.

No, sir. You were right. Same... but oddly enough, 1 difference.

GM# 25807953 | FRAME, DRIVETRAIN & FRT SUSP | W 3.8-2 (L26), 3.8-4 (L32) | 2005-2007 | 1240.19
GM# 25807953 | FRAME, DRIVETRAIN & FRT SUSP | W 5.3C (LS4) | 2005-2008 | 1132.40

So, class. The V8 subframe, while sharing the same part number, in my GM Catalog, shows to be cheaper than the other one of the SAME PART NUMBER! God the "Engineers" were smoking good ****.