Thread: 1997 Black GTP - Soon To Be Thumping.

Yup just going to replace plugs with XP606 Iridiums and wires with 8.5mm MSD.

Incase you didn't look the codes up to see what all it could be I'll lay it out for ya.

P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as:

• a lack of power
• detonation (spark knock)
• rough idle
• hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
  Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
• Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
• Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
• Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
• Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
• Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
• Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Possible Solutions

A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include:

• Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required
• Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system
• Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
• Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
• Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool
• If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test

Notice the Possible Solutions, try those, most just take time to check. Possible your resulting mis-fire could have a hand in it as well.

EDIT: you may also check and make sure the 02 Sensor hasn't come loose, sometimes with Anti-Seize it can loosen itself off just enough. Again, free to check, just have to do it.

Originally Posted by DanPrixGTP

Yup just going to replace plugs with XP606 Iridiums and wires with 8.5mm MSD.

Blah, iridiums.

Y U no listen?

Cheap, copper core plugs for a reason. Old motor, old design, likes old technology.

Also, Bank 1 is a vacuum leak.

Always is.

99.9% of the time, as the other .1% it's the battery cable thing or someone who has the wrong MAF tables. But since your car isn't tuned, I'm betting a vac leak...you probably hit the MAP sensor line or something installing the o2.

Or something dryrotted finally.

Common.

Again I will offer my services to hook the AF up to your car and check some stuffs...

Only reason why i choose Iridiums is because i heard they last longer compared to copper. Thats why.

And josh, ill come sometime soon and hook up the AF and get some readings.

Originally Posted by DanPrixGTP

Only reason why i choose Iridiums is because i heard they last longer compared to copper. Thats why.

Originally Posted by Kolton Lock

Its true. Eridiums people run 50-100k while people recommend replacing copper anywhere from 15-30k

I have seen factory iridiums in LS1s run over 100k. But alot of people don't care enough to drop the money to put them back in. At (usually) ~$10 per plug thats $60-$80 depending on what you have. Or you can go cheap and get a decent copper core for $3 per plug and change them a couple times during the process. Either way you will end up spending about the same, just make sure you have good wires or a life-time warranty on them if you get the cheapo's. Replacing plugs alot can cause the wires to get broken if you don't have good quality ones.

Personally I would spend the money now and not worry down the road, but that's just me. I run the NGK TR55s, but w/e :P

Originally Posted by DanPrixGTP

Only reason why i choose Iridiums is because i heard they last longer compared to copper. Thats why.

And josh, ill come sometime soon and hook up the AF and get some readings.

Weak tipped Iridiums.

Plus, boosted cars love copper core plugs.

But, u Dan.

U do wut u wants.

Ordered some MSD wires.

There Nick, i listened to you for once.

You think the P0171 code is from the upstream o2? If you look at the picture i posted before, the new sensor looks different than the old. I thought i read it doesnt matter but now that im getting a code, could the new o2 sensor be one of the problems? should i just go by an OEM one from Delphi i believe?

Your p0171 is a vacuum leak

Yup.

That has nothing to do with the o2.

Then AutoZone lies. I had them scan the car, print out a receipt of the codes and it said I could have a bad o2. How do you check for Vac leaks then?

Originally Posted by DanPrixGTP

Then AutoZone lies. I had them scan the car, print out a receipt of the codes and it said I could have a bad o2. How do you check for Vac leaks then?

Saturday October 20th.... I WILL HOOK MY AF TO YOUR CAR...

Originally Posted by TLSheff

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
  Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
• Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
• Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
• Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
• Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
• Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
• Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Post # 1002 - 11th Post above.

Possible problems is a bad 02 sensor... but I wouldn't just to the most costly ones without checking the ones you can do for free.
Can of spray B12 and check every connection point on the vacuum lines, if the RPMs go up, you need to fix the leak.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy

EDIT: 12th Post above... Dang you Iceman! *shakes fist*

BTW... ITS AUTOZONE! I don't trust the employee's there, and general consensus is most others don't... for reasons. No offense to those who haven't been screwed by them, your time will come.

I honestly can't wait that long. I need this fixed this week. I'm seeing 10 mpg right now. Went through $45 of gas in 2 days.i'm buying plugs tonight and I ordered new wires already

Originally Posted by DanPrixGTP

Step 2 of 4 done.

Upstream o2 Sensor, and can you say Pain in the as*. The sensor was in a very tight spot and i was crawling all over the engine but finally i managed to get the old out and in with the new. Hopefully this will up my MPG's some.

This is exactly what new o2 sensor looks like that i just got from zzp last sat. I believe i got a faulty sensor because when my car enters closed loop with the new sensor everything runs really rough. Not saying your o2 is bad but i was wondering about the same thing when i got my new o2 sensor because my old one looks like your old one. i do like the new one better because its fits
in my sd headers nicely but ive thrown the old one back in because i could barely keep it running with the new o2.

I hope you don't blow the money on Iridiums. Get the Copper 104's like I told you to. They're $10 and you can replace them once a year. Plugs are the easiest thing EVER to do on a 3800.

Originally Posted by BoostenGTP

I hope you don't blow the money on Iridiums. Get the Copper 104's like I told you to. They're $10 and you can replace them once a year. Plugs are the easiest thing EVER to do on a 3800.

104s are a little too cold for his car arent they???

No? I ran 104's when I was pretty much stock. That's the next best plug if you're starting to mod. Which he is. I ran 103's after my intercooler XP build. But 104's close to stock.

Originally Posted by BoostenGTP

No? I ran 104's when I was pretty much stock. That's the next best plug if you're starting to mod. Which he is. I ran 103's after my intercooler XP build. But 104's close to stock.

i ran 104's on 3.2....that was good enough.

i recommend 605's on 3.8 - 3.5