Thread: Luke's GTP

Worked with the front knuckle last night. Also raised the car up a little bit. Back tires are on ramps, and front is resting on four jack-stands. Everything went well, except I couldn’t get the ball-joint stem to break free of the knuckle. Here we go again… I read all the how-to’s. Pried down on the LCA with a 5’ steel bar, tried whacking the ball-joint on the side while pushing down….nothing. Ball-joints are rather knew, with about 2,000 miles on them. I don’t want to saw them off, and don’t want to use my pickle fork either…trying to re-use these ball-joints since they are new. I soaked the stem with PB blaster for now, and I’ll be back at it later this week. Thinking I need to push down on the LCA with significantly more pressure then I was.

Spare tires is on for axle nut removal. Picked up this handy trick using the write up in the link below. When that thing finally gave, what a POP! It was so loud, thought I broke something

Link. This guy has a lot of good walk throughs:
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/G...y-Replacement/



Hub came off no problem. Both front hubs are pretty knew, also with 2,000 miles on them. Will be re-used:


Sensor bracket survived. Wire wheeled as best I could without wasting too much time. Then OSPHO. I’ll hit it with some Rustoleum before installing:


Splined bolts came out without much issue. It’s just that damn ball-joint that’s in my way now:

pop them bolts back in the strut, just to hold it tight, then take your pipe there and wedge it under the frame between the lca so that you can lean on the pipe and its pushing the lca down, with the ball joint nut off, lean on the pipe, smack the ball joint with a BFH a few times, it will pop right out for ya.

un hook the sway bar end links if they are hooked up still. or it holds the lca up.

^ ^ I was thinking the same thing about the strut bolts... they need to go back in. For sure. Sway bar is un-hooked. I also think I need to lean on the pipe more, to put more downward pressure on the LCA. I kinda half-assed it yesterday. But thinking about it now, there's nothing there that can break so I will just lean on it almost dead-weight style, and smack the ball-joint. If the weather holds up, I should get back out there this Wednesday or Thursday.

you can kinda stand on the pipe, then have a pal hit it. or you'll need to be somewhat flexable, or a god damn lank like myself. i got em off solo. used a little roofing hammer and just leaned on the pipe with the other hand. im also heavy lol

you sound like you could be my brother. i just lost 10 lbs or so, so im down to 250 range, and 6'6 as well. you'll manage just fine.

Aww I smell a bromance

homos


I would just replace the lca easier

but your luck you wont get the bolts out.

Originally Posted by wowitsfast

Aww I smell a bromance

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

homos


I would just replace the lca easier

but your luck you wont get the bolts out.

whats your names, neal and bob? or is that what ya do?

we dont do each other if thats what your implying omo+h

Originally Posted by wowitsfast

Aww I smell a bromance

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you sound like you could be my brother...

We're 3800 brothers. Lol. 3.8-4-Life! Especially since these W-bodies sure are comfortable, even when you're 6'6".

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

but your luck you wont get the bolts out.

Yep. That's what I'm expecting. Those outter tie rods might have been stock, I don't know... The ball joints are newish so they might not have seized up as bad as that tie-rod.

Noticed this on my way to work. Ouch! Gonna be expensive. Third time I've seen this happen. So far it's been Camry, Camry, Accord. Fu***rs have an appetite for Japanese rims. Doesn't matter what neighborhood you live in. In the city, if its not bolted down to concrete, it might go missing.

Pussies forgot one, even the criminals are getting lazy these days.

Ya the other guy I was eyeballing, his rims look alright lol. These guys should add insult to injury and nab the calipers too!

Got some work done over the weekend. Got the drivers side ball-joint to pop, no problem. Hell, it was so easy I did the passenger side as well. Gonna get the MOOG problem solvers pressed into the LCA’s as per the link below. Already ordered them, should be here tomorrow. Along with front sway bar bushings and end links. All rubber OEM, no poly for me. Knuckles got a cleaning. Ball joints look and feel good. The LCA’s are Dorman. The mounting bolts for the LCA’s came out real real easy, confirming my thought’s that they are new’ish. Along with the HUB’s they have maybe 2,000 miles on them. They are definitely re-usable. Don’t know what brand the HUB’s are though. I’m guessing some cheapo brand. There was no stamp on them. Gonna put them back in anyway.

MOOG Problem Solver Link:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...=1#post1324596

Drivers Side:


Passenger:


Cleaned the splines on the drivers side strut bolts. Looking good:


Passenger side strut bolts. More slickmeister'ing. Under closer inspection it's evident that one bolt is shorter, and not splined. Hmmm...


LCA's. Need a cleaning:


Ball-joints look and feel good:




Knuckles got a soaking. Need another one:

I’m coming in pretty late to the whole 3800 game. Many others before me… But I might be the first to have ever painted the front knuckles. Haha! I realize you can’t really see them. I realize it’s a gross waste of time. LOL! Whatever. Waiting on the MOOG bushings to be delivered has me bored, so I had to do something for the GTP. Took a few hours. Pretty long process:

Soaked in dish soap and hot water
Scrubbed and Dried
Soaked in dish soap and hot water again
Scrubbed and Dried
Cleaned with brake cleaner
Wiped down with rubbing alcohol
Applied masking tape to all mating surfaces
Applied primer

That’s where I’m at now. Primed up:

Nice, looks like some kind of Transformers Robo-Bra....lol

^^ LOL cheatah. Very cunning observation good sir!

I’m always thinking I’m right at the cusp of the getting the car started and off to the welder. But had to give myself a reality check and make a list of all outstanding and critical items. Mann, it’s a damn long list. Some things taking more time then others. Here it is:

§ Fuel Lines – re-check all unions
§ Brake Lines – re-check all unions
§ Drop off LCA’s and MOOG bushings to suspension shop to be pressed in
§ Clean sway bar bushing surfaces before unscrewing brackets.
§ Remove sway bar bolts and brackets
§ Install LCA’s (after MOOG problem solver bushings are pressed in)
§ Install HUB to Knuckle (thread screws first)
§ Install Knuckle (ball-joint stem, strut bolts, axle)
§ Install new sway bar bushings
§ Install new sway bar end links
§ Install new MOOG tie rod ends
§ Connect inner and outer tie rods
- (didn’t count how many turns it took, what’s the best way to re-assemble now?)
§ Connect the Mangasteer cable
§ Replace lower radiator hose (flush out coolant)
§ Solder the RaceTronix fuel pump wire to the resistor
§ Buy and install new Ignition Harness
- (Will crank sensor access be an issue here? Need to remove balancer, or no?)
§ Install new transmission mount
§ Install new engine mount
§ Buy and install new slotted rotors
§ Buy and install new brake pads
§ Install calipers
§ Change oil
§ Change oil filter
§ Pour in fresh oil
§ Pour in fresh coolant
§ Pour in fresh brake fluid
§ Pour in fresh fuel
§ START CAR
§ Bleed Brakes
§ Bleed air from cooling system
§ Drive car 28 miles to the body shop/welder