Still don't have an import.
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Still don't have an import.
I'm planning on it, I'm deciding on whether to attempt it before this winter, or just wait until spring...
Plus I have to figure out an undercoating that I can do myself that will protect it for at least a few years, until I can get it into a shop for less than $2k. lol
That's actually what I'm trying to avoid... Rubberized paints tend to be more permeable than regular paint. Which means rust will still continue to spread underneath the rubber.
I think I'll get some Ospho and just do some satin black, wire wheel the problem areas first just to make sure it's not penetrating any further than surface rust.
MOAR POSTERITY!
Made it all one post, just because it's neater that way.
Pictures of the rust (or lack thereof) situation of the sloot as of today:
Driver's side front:
Driver's side rear:
Passenger side front:
Passenger side rear:
This is why you look under a car BEFORE buying it...
Here's a sight for some of you... How often do you see a minty GP?
Driver's side rear strut tower:
Passenger's side rear strut tower:
Terrible pics for the underside, but you get the idea... That's unusually clean and rust free for the amount of crap that this car has been through. I'm perplexed as to the reason why it's so clean.... but I'm not complaining. lol
Current plan is to get some form of rust converter, either POR15, Ospho, or similar (whatever I can find up here basically) and just spray either satin black, or use up the can of Duplicolor silver I have to keep it from getting worse while I'm up here in AK. Once I get back down to the lower 48, I'll look into doing something else to protect it further.
I will have the most rust-proof GP EVAH! or at least runner up.
Thats downright wild coming from AK. They all look like that or better here in AR. At least mine still do. Wire wheel that stuff off before coating it and use shiny paint over whatever potion you use. I'll tell you right now if you want to stop further damage you'll need to take the rocker moldings off and do something about the inside of the rocker, between the inner and outer sheetmetal layers. Like here-
Looks like the "jack it up by the rail" crew has been through lol
Thanks, I was hoping you would see this and lend some experienced advice.
I'll be climbing under it here in a week or two if it doesn't snow, by then I should have all of the supplies I'll need to catch it before it gets bad. If it snows, it might be a week or two longer to get a spot in the DIY shop, I'll use their hydraulic lifts and be much more comfortable. Lol
I think the strut towers will be fine with just a little bit of wire brush to remove the surface rust underneath on the edges and tiny spots, then I'll just touch up with something gloss. It's really not much, but if this car is going to last forever, I need to do something to prevent it from growing.
I want to be upset about the damage to the frame moulding, or whatever it's called since this is a unibody car, but I don't know how that would be "fixed" or if it even changes anything being bent in like that. I'll leave it for a later me problem. Lol
Those dents are pretty much cosmetic, no worries about the dents but if the paint cracked theres a corrosion hotspot.
In case you never heard of this stuff... the wand could be your new best friend-
https://www.google.com/#q=rust+fighter
Mmmm.... That does look like a much easier task than what I had in mind...
I was looking at small wire cups and extensions to get in there, then using a foam brush to get all up in there with the ospho. Lol
I'm still thinking of how I'm gonna get inside the rockers without cutting... I haven't seen anyone pulling the 04+ side skirts off yet to fix rocker panel rust, I might be the first. Lol
Torque says my intake temps are around 40°-45° F... With a HAI.
It's not even cold here yet.
I wonder what kind of timing I can do before it gets ridiculous... Lol
Dem strut towers tho. Lol
I haven't looked at my radiator core support yet. But it's probably rusty as well.
I'm just gonna say, they aren't doing too bad for being rust belt born cars. Lol
I've decided to try and source some hard parts for the transmission, I'll be looking for 3.69 gears, along with a 7/8ths chain setup and 300m or stronger input shaft, along with all the rest of the normal internal upgrades.
I'm not going to turbo this car, because turbos break things and I don't want to be constantly fixing this thing after it's built.
Once I get back to the lower 48, I will be looking for an 04+ GTP, preferably a Comp G. Really won't care what the rust condition is, it's gonna be a parts car most likely. If it's decently clean, I might strip the interior and rollcage it, make a dirt track car.
turbos breaks things.... your such a noob.....only people that break things are penny chasers.
Zzp 3.69 gears come with the 7/8th chain.
The gears are fun, but if your cruising over 65mph, you can only downshift into third, kinda gutless untill you.get the rpms up
Mine still drives perfectly fine, and it has no input clutch seal left. What's your point there?
How many people with turbos are having issues with their transmissions? Let's see...
There's James, with the 600whp turbo regal that he's completely redesigning the input chain setup for...
Tyler, who gave up after he broke everything multiple times...
Red, who broke his engine with a turbo...
BoostedPontiac, who broke a built block with a turbo...
So much broken stuff, and it all happened with turbos installed. How many times do people get advised that they need a built trans for a turbo, because stock stuff breaks way to easily with a turbo. Even hard parts break with a turbo. You may be the exception to the rule somehow, but you are the only exception.
Consider yourself lucky, stroke your ego and say it's because you "know how to not break stuff", say whatever you want. I guarantee if you actually pushed your car, ran the 1/4 mile as fast as the car can possibly go, it would break. But you won't push your car, because you know things will break and it's not worth replacing things constantly. That's your decision.
I made the decision to NOT go turbo yet, because I always push the car as hard as it'll go. Because I feel like it. I know things will break, and I'm prepared for that. I know putting a turbo on a W-body will break things that aren't easy to fix, and expensive. I'm not going to spend that kind of money on something that won't reliably handle the abuse I will put it through.
And I know ZZP sells them, I'm thinking of going through Dave though. And it might take a bit of figuring, but I'm sure I can tune the Trans to shift into 4th sooner. I'll figure it out when I get to that point. Lol
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