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I'd rock that 305 for a while. nothing wrong with using what you have. I had a 1967 Caprice that I was going to build, it had a 327 with a turbo 400. I was going to do the suspension, then brakes, and then the engine. I ended up selling it after I realized how much work it would be.
:th_BSflag-big:Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
i call bs. I'm from the 80s
case and point lol
i did mean cars. they all sucked bad. the epa was still cracking hard, pcm's were in their infancy and sucked. if a cel came on in the 80's you were kinda f ed if you were a diy person used to cars from the 70's and older.
old cars needed very little to run, air, fire and fuel. it will run lol
It costs more than a new rear axle lol
-Apex Aaron
375 aint to bad really. just the first link i clicked on. http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...onversion-kit/
i would suggest looking into an ebay twin turbo kit. it will liven that 305 right up. a buddy had an 87 t/a with a 5 speed and a twin set up. was a blast and ran damn good.
I'd go 427 if funds allow. Big block power with the short stroke made those things run like animals. I'd run a 427 over any other big block in a street car, buuuuuut I'm poor lol.
Well I have a new problem, or granted the previous owner's problem. Vats/ ignition cylinder isn't reading the key, and won't start the car. So I either have to bypass the vats system or replace the ignition cylinder.
And I'm leaning towards ignition cylinder
-Apex Aaron
Read the key with a multi meter then buy a resistor of that value, then connect it to the 2 wires coming from the switch to bypass it temporarily so you can move it around.
Jeff
Gotta buy a multimeter now lol
-Apex Aaron
Just buy a cheap one for now.
Jeff
i just went to my local gas station and asked them to ohm my key. takes 2 seconds.
He's going to need a meter anyway when he gets into that harness I bet. You can even buy one of the cheap Harbor Freight $5 meters.
Jeff
I had an 86 iroc z for a while as a dd. Slow as sh1t compared to my gp. And that was with the 305 tpi, not the even worse throttle body junk.
Car would pull good to 40. Then sadness.
Engine swap or just a cool dd imho.
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that cheap dmm from hf dont even work. spend more money on electronics. cheap for one of them is 25-30 bucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by J57ltr
I had a $$$ fluke and $40 craftsman. I use the $40 more
look at Sears. I saw one recently for around $25
I'm gonna pick up a nicer once. I was a Digital Electronics Repairman for the Navy, so I'm gonna need it for what I plan on doing
-Apex Aaron
I use a Fluke as well but for most people I recommend just getting a cheap one they work fine and usually last at least a year, besides when they toast it it's not a loss like a $300-400 Fluke.
Jeff
Yep Exactly.
i have a 92 with the vats system and we just bypassed. it was really painless if you need i can go under the pass side and get your the module that we used it works really well and had 2 setting. its not the dam sodering in resistors crap. but really why add such a crappy system like that?Quote:
Originally Posted by AaroGaming