ball joints Press in or bolt on?

**04lss** · 09-22-2014

I know this is a basic question, but as the cars still at my brothers house i havent been able to verify.
I know my 97 gtp needs lower ball joints to pass inspection, what im not sure about is if they are simple bolt on ball joints, or press in.
It looks like they are bolt ons in the images online but they could be stock photos. I have also read that it requres two wheen looking at the parts, does this mean there are two per wheel or 2 to do the front end?

unrelated question these cars are boats from the factory as far as handling, i know that GMPP makes front and rear sway bars for the wbody cars, im not looking for huge handling out of this car, but i would like it to be on par (or preferably better) than my 06 fusion in terms of body roll and response, is this a reasonable expectation?

**blueguy** · 09-22-2014

Horrible handling cars, for the most part.

It's like trying to steer a boat in sand.

Better tires, bigger sways front and rear (Dorman's work), with poly end links/bushings, strut braces front and rear...and of course, new LCA's/solid motor/trans mounts...and a stout spring/strut combo.

As for the ball joints...just buy a set of new LCA's...they're cheap...ball joints are in there...and you don't have to press anything out. And the price isn't THAT much different either.

**BillBoost37** · 09-22-2014

Balljoints are originally factory riveted in, replacements bolt in. The rivets suck to get out. You'll chisel the head and hit it with an air hammer.. they won't move. You'll end up drilling each one etc. Plus, likely the bushings in the control arms are also bad and for pretty cheap money, replace the entire control arm.

**CrazyGuy03** · 09-22-2014

Does energy suspension or prothane make poly bushings for our control arms?

i just bought 2 new control arms for the 03 eclipse spyder and loaded them with energy suspension polys

That's the way I would go when I re do my regal if they make them

**04lss** · 09-22-2014

hmm, its about a 60$ difference since i have to do both sides, the car also needs front rotors pads and tires, along with a window reg, (it was 800$ and it runs good) so i may just drill them out with my dads help since hes a tech, Im probably going used tires, ebay rotors and ive already got the regulator. Id be happy to hear any suggestions on cheap brakes, especially on the possibility of pulling the rotors and calipers off of a junkyard fbody

**blueguy** · 09-22-2014

FBody's.

Yup.

Or CTSV/GT500 brakes.

Or GP GXP brakes.

**dsmuts** · 09-22-2014

I cut an x into the head of the rivet with my air grinder then use my air hammer and they pop right out.

**Logan541** · 09-22-2014

Bill's right bushings are most likely shot att bushing to price of a good set of joints it equal price of LCA's I got moogs off ebay $60. an arm, as fior cheap brakes and rotors you will end up with a ton of dust and again ebay got power slots 48 each and haw pads for 40 in fact the power slots were through J.C. Whitney you may just want to call them direct on the phone they give a discount not available on line. As for handling I hit the JY and took a sway bar off a police crusier its a lot bigger, then hit a caddie for a stb its bigger than the ones made for our cars and grabbed one for the trunk as well and I went with Assurance Goodyear rain tires car feels like its glued to road

**CrazyGuy03** · 09-22-2014

No one else thinks polys help ?

**eetchickn** · 09-22-2014

Just did ball joints in mine. Prolly would have gone better if I had a better drill bit. I ground the heads on both sides flush and drilled after. Was a PIA. Remember that the nuts go on the bottom. If you put the bolt through the bottom and nut on the top the half shaft will bind on them.

**BillBoost37** · 09-23-2014

Originally Posted by dsmuts

I cut an x into the head of the rivet with my air grinder then use my air hammer and they pop right out.

Slutty Smutty... you are either full of manure or the luckiest man alive. I've yet to have one go that nice.

**dsmuts** · 09-23-2014

It was on a cutlass it that matters but the same principal

**BillBoost37** · 09-23-2014

Bonneville, Regal, GP... they all want to keep their rivets. LMK when you do the next job...

**dsmuts** · 09-23-2014

It's easier to swap the lca so that's what I normally do lol

**04lss** · 09-23-2014

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Bonneville, Regal, GP... they all want to keep their rivets. LMK when you do the next job...

I think after seeing all the replies, im going to go for the LCA, then i shouldnt get stuck scratching my head if it doesnt go right. - thanks

As far as handling i think im going to go with the sway bars, and braces to start off with. eventually ill probably go for the adjustable struts and lowering springs

on a side note... I have 2 options im considering for license plates, "fne wine" and "fst boat"

**BillBoost37** · 09-23-2014

Go with a standard off the shelf regular plate. That way you attract less attention. Trust me.. cops learn vanity plates and know all about boosted cars etc.