Thread: Mechanically inclined noob

filter is cheap and some what easy to change. its 12 bucks well spent.

the trick to getting it off is to just clamp the line nut with a pair of vise grips, hold the line nut still, and then use the nut on the filter to turn the filter off the nut. this way you dont twist the fuel line.

the new fuel pump will also have a new pump sock so that filter is covered.

and have a drain pan to catch all the gas that will leak out when the filter is removed. dont have your head under it while removing it lol gas in the eyes sucks bad. gas also like to run down to your elbows, be ready for that, short sleeves.......

drip at first, when it comes off the line will drain out rather fast, then stop leaking. and back to a slow drip from what ever is left to drip out the line. maybe a quarts worth.

the other side you pinch and push in and then pull the filter out the line. sometimes it takes a little wiggle in and out to pop it free.

oh you want to drain the fuel pressure too to keep it from squirting all over too if you pull the plastic part of first. under pressure still gas will fly out.

either pull the fuel pump relay and run the car till it stalls, or push the shrader valve on the fuel rail to let the pressure out. gas will shoot out of this valve too, so put a rag over it, push the pin with a screw driver. its like a tire valve stem inside it.

Well if his pump is already dead, why not just change it first.

It won't have any pressure to begin with.

There are also ways to remove pressure from the system. Not everyone is like me and simply puts on safety glasses and says.. BONZAIIIIIIII

Needing bearings is a standard option for W bodies (it's that common)
Catalytic might be causing the P0300 (multiple misfire) and the bogging feeling etc.

your coolant is dex coolant, its brown and crappy. flush it clean, then re fill using the green coolant.

you cant clean a cat.

those bearings are a waste of money, buy a name brand parts local from a parts store with a 3 year warranty, your gonna need it. ive warrantied the same hub 3 times now, with no real miles to speak of.

this way when it goes bad it a local trip to get a new one. no shipping or BS involved. you can buy them at advance auto's web site, add a discount code and pay less, then pick up at your local store.

Originally Posted by keonmakesbeatz

One more question; I really want a manual car. What manual transmission would work with the 3800 without having to fabricate parts and what not?

None. It's a completely custom job pretty much

Originally Posted by keonmakesbeatz

How do I properly flush the coolant?

Btw I have a Chilton manual for the car. Would this answer a lot of my questions? Sorry that I have so many questions. It's my first car and I want to do work on it but I haven't done much with cars and I don't wanna mess things up by doing things the improper way.

the manual is great to have, but they do make you go the long way more often than not. read it, then look up a how to for the same job, you can cut a few step out of the manual.


how to flush coolant.


remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.


get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.


then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.


put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.





now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.


now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.


done.