What kind of gap do I need for the plugs? They don't come gapped appropriately, right?
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What kind of gap do I need for the plugs? They don't come gapped appropriately, right?
Since this thread is about my car, more or less, I figure this next question is fine. I ordered parts and such to do servicing or "tune up" as well as o2 sensors and lim gasket. I can't get going with tackling the exhaust just yet till fundage. I stop at AZ today to get odds and ends, cleaners and such. I figured while I am here I'll get a scan to see what I can worry about. Now I already know about my o2 sensors and my fuel sender or whatever it is that tells me I have gas or what fluctuates and I know about an evap code. I got a new gas cap to see if that might help. Anyway I get the scan today, no evap, no fuel gauge thingy even tho it still doesn't work well. I still have o2 codes and now 2 other codes. One is p0128 and the other is p0303. I do have a coolant leak and I have been keeping an eye on it, lately. I had new hoses put it in a while back. Immediately I had a leak at the hose on the left side that wasn't tightened properly. Tightened it and then it happened again during this winter. My car almost overheated. Tightened again and haven't had another issue with it. Hopefully that code is still there from that.
This is getting huge so I'm going to end with some questions. Can some of this be related? How bad can a misfire be if not resolved now? Anything I should do before I start my project or can I still do my servicing seafoam project first?
The p0128 if just for the coolant temp not getting up to proper temp. Replacing the thermostat and bleeding the system of air normally fixes it.
Having a misfire isnt good, I can't tell you if it's a hard miss or just at random. You'd notice a hard misfire quickly and it wouldn't be a good idea to drive it like that.It's not burning fuel on that cylinder and could end up overheating the cat converter and melting it down internally.
With your tune up, new plugs and wires should fix it, if not you just have the coil packs and ignition control module to look at for faults.
Ok so could it be the coolant is a bad ratio mix? Should I try bleeding the air first before replacing the thermostat or do both? How do I bleed it? Would a hard miss cause hard starting? When I start the car it seems rough. Not hard to start but more like a VAROOM.
to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it
Exactly why I thought of a kitty cat. Like it smelled mouse from my car and went snooping around and got stuck in a vent shaft. For a second I thought it was common. For a second, seriously.
Does anyone else have advice for the other questions? Also how noticeable is a hard misfire?
It does shake a bit but I figured it was the exhaust. No flashing light tho.
Now my abs light came on and my hud went out. My hud dims in and out every once in awhile when I play certain music really loud. This time it doesn't come on at all. The motor to position it still works.
My hud came back on but abs light still there. Trac light not on.
When I do the spark plugs and wires, and I guess th o2 while I am there, should I bother taking off the top mounts? I heard it makes it easier but my tools are limited. Will I be able to get the engine back in position? Are people making a bigger deal about the back ones than they really are?
My first automotive spark plug change was on my 3800 and I didn't think it was as bad as people were making it out to be. I would suggest folding a couple old towels and placing them up above the radiator so you can kneel up in the engine bay - that seemed to help out for me. If you have access to compressed air, once you take the wires off the plugs, shoot some air around the plug while its still in the block to blast any crud out of there. You can avoid bumping crud into the engine when you are fumbling the new plugs into place.
One other suggestion I've heard is to remove and install the front plugs and wires first so you can build a mental image of the angle, height, etc that the plugs are at. If you do this, when you get to the back you'll have a better idea of how things are oriented when working somewhat blind.
I am of no help on the other issues you're having.
Ok so I'm having trouble with my fuel filter. It's rusted on. Tried pb blaster twice to no avail. I bought some acetone and atf but haven't applied it yet. If this doesn't work then I will probably do the whole fuel line. My question is, what kit should I get or is there a better remedy I'm overlooking?
get a good set of vice grips, lock them on the line nut. hold the nut still, then with another wrench turn the filter off with its nut. this way the line wont twist and break on you.
This girl I work with said to try using a torch. I told her when I'm done I'll install my new windshield with a hammer. She looked at me like I was a genius.
Yeah I'm way too paranoid for that.
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