Central FL - Somehow ended a GP CompG owner.

abs and tc are abs related, most likely a bad hub. nothing radio related.

jack each wheel up, lugs tight, then grab the top of the tire, do a firm slow push and pull, if the wheel moves the hub is bad. you can also watch the rotor where it meets the pads and caliper look for the rotor to move, the caliper wont move.

if you can find any loose hubs or damaged wires to the hubs, take the car to be scanned. you could toss good money after bad hunting that down.

you'll need to get a abs code reader, or stop at a shop and have it scanned, they will charge you for this, but its better then tossing cash aimlessly at it.

Ok. Good info, and corroborates what he told me, that the front passenger side hub needed replaced/fixed. I will raise the car and do that hub test and see what I come up with.

Am I checking for lateral movement or in-out?

lateral movement, the top will push in, the bottom will move out and back and fourth.

if the hub is bad enough the brakes will feel like crap too.

dont buy a cheap hub, get a timken, or moog or skf, the cheap ones are just that cheap, a few months later you'll be doing that hub again. the good ones have a 3 year warranty too. buy local, same price and on line minus the shipping, and should it go bad, you dont have to ship it back and be with out a car for who knows how long.

Cool. Thank you so much. This is so important to me. I need to get this car to reliable daily driver condition.

I will update later after I make the test.

Timken moved manufacturing to china and now it blows. SKF is the way I would go.

my last 2 hubs were timken, they had best hold up......:th_scratchhead:

Moog hubs are pretty good to... arent they? I bought two fronts and replaced them about a year ago, and no problem since.

Moog is a company that makes solid suspension components. SKF has one job...to make bearings. Just how I look at it.

I'm sure all the bearings that are decent name brand will be fine. They are cheap enough and I can change one out in about 30-45 minutes, so its really not a lose if one fails...just as long as the warranty covers it or you can get your money back.

Welcome to the site. I used to live in central Florida in Winter Haven. I have a black 04 Comp G and the Florida sun took its toll on it as well. The clear coat on the rear spoiler is done for and I have some cracked and faded interior pieces from the heat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, the front passenger side hub needs to be replaced.

I didn't get to test the driver side as I ran out of daylight. But shouldn't I replace both since the car just passed 100k?

Can the worn hub be the cause of the ABS, TC, BREAK warning lights? And if it is, would replacing them make them go out? Or do I need a programmer to reset them?

I would personally replace both sides. Yes a bad hub will cause your ABS/trac light. If that is the problem the lights should go out when you replace them. If it doesn't then you have a problem somewhere else and your beat bet would be to take it to a shop that can scan the ABS system. It will pinpoint the problem without spending a bunch of money replacing parts that are still good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. Reading up and watching videos on the hub replacement.

Then I am going to price the hubs tomorrow and a few tools I don't have.

You'll need a 34 or 36mm socket, 13mm 6 sided socket, 15mm socket, and possibly a 3 jaw pulley puller or bfh.

It's the hub nut socket and torque wrench that I don't have. Good on everything else.

You don't need a torque wrench if you don't have one. I almost never use one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dsmuts

You don't need a torque wrench if you don't have one. I almost never use one.

---

Almost never......I just don't use one lol

that socket, you can just get a 36 mm, it works on the 34 mm nut, that is the stock size, 36 mm is the new bolts size. not knowing if the axle has been changed you wont know what size it is till the wheels off. so just get a 36 is what im saying here, sooner or later you'll be doing a axle and will need the 36 mm either way down the road.

i know for a fact the 36 works on the 34, ive done it. its a bit loose fitting but it holds.


a breaker bar and a pipe will help break the bolt loose. little trick here to get it off, put the spare tire on, and 2 lug nuts back on just snugged up, then lower the car, then take the nut off, this way the wheel holds the axle from turning. you dont want to crank on the parking gear in the tranny.

some times a socket extension fits in the fins of the rotor, drop it in closest the rotor, let it hit the rotor, then crank on it, this also keeps you off the parking gear.

put it back on the same way, what ever you chose.

you can do the free rental for the torque wrench at auto zone or pep boys, you leave a deposit, when you return it they give you a full refund. aka free rental in my book.

^^ That's what I always do. Go to Autozone and rent the socket. A breaker bar and a piece of pipe for more leverage will help a bunch. Those nuts can be real tight sometimes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk