2004 GP GT1 Starting Problem

**nevohtsur** · 03-20-2013

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie, to the forum.

I have an '04 GP GT1 3800 Series III. It has been running and starting fine, until yesterday. When I started the car to go to work it started the engine sort of reved a little (Without my intervention) and then it died. Now the car will start very briefly, and then die immediatly.

I know this is somewhat of a common problem, as I've read a lot about people having a similar problem, but nobody has posted a clear cut resolution. My problem seems to be slightly different in that no matter what I do I cannot get the car to stay running longer than 2 seconds at most. It acts like someone just turned off the key right after it starts.

I've checked for engine codes and I have none. The following is a list of what I've tried so far to correct the problem:
1) Cleaned the throttlebody.
2) Cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner.
3) Verified that the idle air control valve is moving freely and operating. (I think this is what its called. Its the large butterfly vavle and motor assembly on the intake just inside of the opening after the plastic/rubber intake tubes.
4) Cleaned the EGR tube and verified operation on the EGR.
5) Had the ignition control module checked out and it is good.
6) Replaced plugs and wires.
7) Listened for fuel pump operation and it does appear to be working. I am getting fuel, but not sure of the pressure. I will check that tonight.

I'm at a loss. Has anyone out there experience this issue, and know exactly what you did to correct the problem?

Thanks everyone. I'm eagerly awaiting your responses.

**BillBoost37** · 03-20-2013

Your DBW TB opens and closes the throttle plate to control idle for you. There isn't a seperate valve.

If you still have the issue with what you mentioned. Unplug the maf and try using a little throttle to get it running. If it'll stay running, then it's the maf.

**nevohtsur** · 03-21-2013

UPDATE!!!

I tried what you suggested BillBoost37, and the car started and stayed running. The computer immediatly stated reduced engine power. I put a new MAF sensor on the car and it started and everything seemed fine.

I let the car idle for a while then took it for a drive. If I got on the accelerator it would take right off, but if I slowly accelerated the tach would drop to around 500 rpm and hesitate for a second or too right when the car tried to shift from first to second. I thought maybe that the computer was relearning the shift points, because it would do it between second and third too, so I wasn't concerned untill I got about 2 miles from my house and the car just died. I tried to unplug the MAF again, but it wouldn't go.

THAT WAS A LONG COLD HIKE!

Got my other car and went back with my code scanner. I got four different codes, three of them pointed to the MAF sensor, and one of them pointed to the MAF/MAP sensor. The exact description was, "MAF/MAP throttle position correlation". I ran to the parts store and bought a MAP sensor and swapped it out. (One of the easiest parts I've ever changed on a car! One plug and two metal spring clips. No tools, done in 30 seconds.) I cleared the codes again, and the car started right up. I drove it home and the car seemed to run perfect. I didn't have a lot of time to test it, so I drove my other car to to work today.

I will test it all out tonight and let you all know if it's fixed.

**nevohtsur** · 03-22-2013

Final Update.

The car is fixed and runs better than ever. Thank you BillBoost for the tip it pointed me in the right direction.

In my case the MAP sensor was definately bad and the MAF sesnor may have had a problem too.

Now on to fix that radio backlight issue I read about.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/radio...tml#post440494 (Radio backlight is out)

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