You need a sc coupler and motor mounts
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You need a sc coupler and motor mounts
ahh just read up on the coupler, that would seem to be the noisy culprit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-GM-For...#ht_681wt_1170
best bang for buck.
Last edited by JLiss; 12-28-2012 at 11:22 AM.
bam - YouTube
that is the only one i have on my computer, my job is ghey's and wont let me access youtube so i dont even remember which this is, but you can see the others on the channel in the daytime.
yea i wish i had someone local, which im sure there is, but i dont know any, that i can compare, i mean its obvious on the torque mounts that they are not aligned/centered.
i wouldnt call powersliding a car on a parking lot drifting.
oil pan is a ***** to replace, since youre doing mounts id make sure you get solid engine and tranny mounts. change the s/c oil for good measure, check how your LIM gasket is doing (good idea to change it anyways if its not aluminium), front end suspension parts always get shot (dont freak out if you break the swaybar). by heater not working you mean it doesnt blow heat (heater core) OR it wont turn on (blower resistor and/or ignition switch)?
i say do a coolant flush and get rid of dexcool, start using regular coolant mix.
That video was prob my worst one. Ill post some more later. Power sliding is done on a awd. Fyi.
Coolant has been flushed yesterday and pressurized the gunk out with regular coolant. S/c oil has been ordered with bs/c coupler. Oil pan has been dropped and replaced. Took about 3hrs. Replaced all oil pressure/oil level sensors (old ones were leaking) replaced motor mount. The previous one was soooo bad I've never in my life seen a motor mount in that bad of shape...ever. only half of it was there the rest detoriated. Replaced torque mounts. Spark plugs and wires go on today. And the blower motor doesn't blow @ all. I'm thinking ignition cause its highly ghettofied to start it. Which I have no idea how I'm going to put it back to stock.
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