3800SC Cavalier

Anthony: thank you very much for the help. Happy to see someone else supporting my zeitronix purchase:) on that note my AEM with only 500miles is for sale:)

At the moment I don't plan to go the can route. I know how the car tuning bug goes and as soon as I get obd2 and a good tune I'll want more but I'm going to try and resist that. I have a daily driver tiburon, and a winter car, and a motorcycle so got to cut myself off somewhere:)

I see zzp has the plog, ceramic coated crossover, and ported rear mani? Think that's way to go? Will that crossover actually do anything for me?

crossover and ported rear is kinda wasted money. very minimal gains. however, the plog is a nice piece.

A 250 dollar wb isnt high end. Thats still budget enthusiest level equipment.

The biggest factor on accuracy is the quality of your unit.

Install is the easy part a long as there are no exhaust leaks.

If you had googled the terms i suggested you would have found a proper wb comparison with a top quality lab grade unit as the reference.

Seems these budget wb's are as useless as narrows.

You could make your own headers that fit, if you have the skill. Since you dont want to/think its possible, get a plog. Itll crack though, so be prepared to weld it when it does.

Is3 requires valve guide clearance, not ported heads.

Mr party pooper in to comment...

I did a lot of research and the zeitronix was talked about in depth on a Porsche forum and was all good reviews. Good enough for them then good enough for me with a $4k car.

As for the link, I did not read it purely because I'm lazy and my sleep/work schedule but locally people have also said spacing should be fine. I do greatly appreciate any input offered however.

I don't have the welding abilities but that's one of my winter projects because I just got a nice entry level miller welder to learn on. So for now think I will be ordering the plog today but will be sitting on it until go obd2 which new parts will help motivate me more for. Unfortunately tracking says new wideband won't be here till early this week then I will be logging and getting the tune.

I pulled one of my plugs and they are the NGKs. On zzp it says they suggest that for a stock GT but 103 autolites for moded sc? Sound like could definitely help?

What is the P/N on the NGK's you have? Need to know a heat range. If they are stock heat range, they are too hot for the 3.4 pulley.

Tr55. 2k miles on them since I put them in right after got car at suggestion of previous owner

Read the plugs, make appropriate changes.

I don't know how to read plugs with any accuracy. The plugs have a blackened look. Not wet or really to black either.

As for the thermostat, I noticed there was a 160* one in it. Is there a reason I shouldn't just replace with another 160* instead of the 180* I threw in?

Well it depends on what the ecu is set at for the fans. If its tuned for the 160* t-stat, leave that. As for plugs, I would just throw new AR104's in it and call it good. They are super cheap.

Sent from my Droid

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp

As for thermostat the fan is set on a switch that I have to manually switch. So is there no other reason to have 180 vs 160*? Buying the 104s regardless but I'm going to look at the stock and try to read them to see what shape was in.

more mpg, burn off water in oil. Both in favour of 180.

Link on WB's for anyone whos curious: http://www.modularfords.com/f17/tuni...ml#post1225791

looks like picking up a 99 buick regal gs next week that the guy smacked the front driver side on. good price and great donor since still runs with no codes etc. Planning to pull engine, ecu, all wiring, and cluster. i dont need the engine but is there anything else people can think of that would be usefull to people?

Seats would be nice in my car lol

What should gap be on 104 autolites? From the box they are at maybe .042

0.055-0.060

Alright thank you. I know earlier someone said that for the Ngk so didn't know if was same

Cupholder on the Regal is gold if it's intact. Really.. the Regal guys break them all the time. I've never hurt one.

On your plans etc. I would go with a plog and leave the rest of your exhaust alone. The rear porting that is done isn't enough to have me suggest it. I don't see that there would be any real gains. Your crossover should be fine as well.

Also with Anthony on the cam. If you can turn stuff counter clockwise and clockwise, then you can do a cam on a 3800 motor. It's a super easy one to work on. Same length pushrods, rockers, etc etc. There's very few "tricks" in our motors.

There's a few other things I'd suggest, like modding the LIM for better coolant flow to keep your rear head cooler, a Gen V would cool cylinder temps nicely,

On the conversion to OBDII. How did they hook the engine harness to the body side and ECU? I've suggested and made a few harnesses for T Type guys where you map out the firewall connector from the car the engine harness comes from and map your cars harness. Then I suggest picking up a fireall side connector from the same car as yours and the interior side connector of engine bay harness car. This way you can make an adapter and not have to cut any of the wiring on the car or engine harness. This allows you pretty good flexibility if you want to add wiring etc.

Supposedly they pulled all wiring an inter-twined them with the olds 88 harness. Unfortunately no diagrams or details... Pretty sure it's being put off until winter so I can enjoy rest of good weather. Driving to look at Buick as we speak.

Hmmm dpending on how they connected to your cars interior wiring (there is usually only about 8 wires needed from the engine to the interior) it may not be too bad.