Thread: New, due to girlfriends incompetence.

That pic of those GP parts is a prime example as to why I would never buy a car from the east coast. My car is a 97 with 179k miles on it and it doesn't even look half that bad.

And on a side note I love when someone comes on and says something sucks then doesn't give any reasoning as to why. Just tell us already oh wise one.

Originally Posted by Hippo Machine

The sway bar is common to rust out and break on these cars, I recommend replacing it with a dorman sway bar, which is solid, and using moog or energy suspension end links. I wouldn't worry about the exhaust yet unless you have a leak. New plugs coils and wires are a good idea, get iridium plugs if you dont wanna have to do them again, and make sure to get stock coils. Struts and coils all around should help with the suspension and maybe upgrading the trailing arms would help with the sway as well.

How's the engine run?

Wrong gen, 3rd gen W-body don't have the Sway problems like the 2nd gen w-body does.

Originally Posted by WRBSTi

As for the R1 E-Line, they're already dirt cheap for D%S rotors, 200 bucks shipped, you guys can't be that poor

As for what's wrong with the car well a few things,
1. The car's front passenger side brakes, im not sure which pad, is scraping against the rotor, i've changed the pads, the rotors and the clips that the pads sit in, and it's still doing it, making a high pitched squeaking noise whist driving it. I've since taken the wheel off and lubed it all up even more with the caliper and brake grease ****, the noise has gone down a tad, but the only thing i can think of left is the 2 bolts that slide into the slider part of the caliper that you're supposed to grease, which i dumped grease into as well. I'm at a loss there. I'll come back to this later. Oh i also wire brushed and sanded down any rust where the sliders sit and all around the caliper that had rust, so it looks like new ish. The sound has minimized but when you roll the window down it is still there.
2. When you go over a bump, the only way i can describe this is like a match box car who's wheels slide from the right to the left. It seems to do that, and it feels so weird i freak out as if the car is going to fall apart. I believe it might be the sway bar end links are shot or it needs a new sway bar.
3. It needs a new exhaust as her car has this nice grumble to it, but it's only because the exhaust is rusting out by my guess and or might have a hole in it. But it sounds ballsier than it did when she got it. That's how she describes it.
4. The plugs, wires and coil packs need to be replaced for 100% sure. i took them apart and you can see all the rust and corrosion in there and they've never been replaced since stock. The car has an issue when you first start it, it cuts off, and forces you to start it a second time. I believe new plugs and wires and packs will solve this problem.
5. It needs new control arms most likely because what i can only describe as rust/corrosion so bad they look like they thinned out so much, im just waiting for it fall off.
6. It needs new shocks and struts for sure because it rides like complete ****.

The car itself has 110K on the clock as well in case anyone was wondering. Most of the stuff on this car has never been replaced or maintained. So i have a ton of work ahead of me.

I have some pictures of some of the work i did and i'll upload them here in a few.

1. Scraping noise is either the little piece of dust shield behind the rotor at the dead center bottom could be touching and causing the noise or the pad clips are rubbing.
2. Bushings somewhere, might as well replace all bushing anyways since it is at 110k and she needs struts. LCA's are cheap and just slap some GR2 struts in their with stock springs. Also check lower motor mounts on both sides, they are filled with grease and like to break and spill it everywhere.
3. Custom exhaust is cheap
4. Only use OEM coilpacks (or ACdelco) there is a ton on here for cheap used (which will work just fine). Since the plugs and wires have never been changed probably be prepared to break the wires off and having one hell of a time getting the metal boot covering off. Once its done once, it won't ever be that hard again. Stick with simple plugs and whatever OEMish wires.
5. See #2 (go with moog LCA's from 97-03 they fit)
6. See #2

Be prepared to replace the Front wheel bearings probably soon, TIMKEN is the best. Hubs can be done in 15-30 mins really nothing hard about it, no pressing ****.

Replace the Rear trailing arms with something a little better, they are probably rusted out by now anyways. BMI or something Solid.

Flush that coolant, I bet its gunked up cause Dexcool does that. You can choose to switch to Green or stay orange. If you go green flush everything really well or you will still have issues.

Lastly there will come a time when the LIM gasket will need to be replaced as they fail (97-early 05 had plastic ones), get the aluminum ones.


Welcome to forum, I live on the East side of the state!

Originally Posted by SnowFlake

Hello and welcome to the board. I'm curious as to why you would buy drilled and slotted rotors if you autocross all your cars?

Originally Posted by WRBSTi

Why wouldn't you? Dissipates heat faster, to keep the rotors cooler and the pads. Auto X puts a lot of strain on the pads and rotors, so having them cooler is better. If you even tell me any reason not to use drilled and slotted rotors i'll pretend you never exist. Myself and many others who run in the STU, and STM and SM classes will prove to you otherwise on a track.

Originally Posted by SnowFlake

Who told you that?

Originally Posted by develand

I thought it was pretty evident that drilled and slotted provide cooler braking....

Drilled is the worst thing ever. Slotted is fine.

Should take a gander at this:
Cross drilled rotor myths dissolved - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

I run 14" rotors and 4 pot calipers and still run solid rotors.

Probably nothing wrong with what you got, it will not last as long probably (but the way cars are traded out every 3 years who cares). There is no real gain to drilled, pads make more of a difference and what not. Avoiding China rotors is key too.

nice plates

Look for the GMPP sway bar kit, you'll get front and rear sway bar and one strut tower brace for what the other front bar cost's almist alone ($135.00).... I used GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts but be forewarned, they took forever to ship (3 weeks) so if in a hurry not a good choice but great price. Energy suspension Poly bushings can be had at reasonable prices and stiffen things a bit and i think the rear trailing arms make a world if difference too, I got mine from HT Motorsports for $110 shipped for the pair which is good price for solid units w/greasable Poly bushings as well.

I might be interested in a group buy, just depends...

Don't be discouraged so easily here, you said you know nothing with the car and is why you've come, some things that work on one car, might not work on another, especially considering the GP is a GM and not a Subaru and when comparing suspensions and braking between the two is like comparing apples n oranges... Totally different dynamics! . I've learned plenty about these GP's in the short time I'm here...

Anyways... Welcome aboard!

GMPP kit was for 97-03. This car is an O4.

Chris.. Listen to what Drunkie posted. With a name like that..how can a guy not like him? lol On Snowflake, he's a bit of a troll, often has difficulty telling the whole story and therefore many tend to dismiss his comments and read the next post.

Welcome to the forum. You'll find a ton of good knowledge here to get the car fixed right up.

Chris..these motors will run with almost all sensor unplugged, trans could be limpin.. they simply hardly ever stop. Overall the costs shouldn't be bad. GM produced a billion and the Impala's, Monte's and Regals were almost the same car. Get to know Rockauto and learn your Advance Auto discount codes and you can save about 40% off normal cost. Once you get it back up to speed, you'll be doing brakes, oil changes and an occasional trans filter service.

PS.. I er uh..upset a modded Subie one day. Somehow he didn't expect after he left me grannying around that corner that I'd walk him on the highway.....in a Bonneville. Sad part is..he's probably still scootin along and after the millionth transmission I demodded.

LOL... Unknown. I could hear him pretty loudly in the comfy highway cruiser, so he likely had the angry hornet exhaust. The rear wing was the taller one, I assumed he was a STI with all the badges and wing, but may have been fronting. Like you said..I had a better chance of sliding/rolling in the corner, but straight line..well the mods treated the car well. I never dyno'd either so my besguestimate is around 360whp is what I was pushing at the time.

Anyway..back to your girls car. There's a thread about Advance auto discounts. CCabin is a good one if you get over $100, and mulitple orders are always the way to go, grouping stuff to get the best discounts.

thanks mang

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

GMPP kit was for 97-03. This car is an O4.

Lol... sorry, my bad!
Sometimes you read what you want to even though it says something entirely different


hahaha... Thanks for the catch!

Welcome aboard Chris and love the STi. I was gonna ask about the group buy, but you already tackled it. I like you already, and enjoy your stay. Plenty of useful information on here as well as knowledgeable individuals.

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