Thread: New, due to girlfriends incompetence.

I was thinking about getting the drilled and slotted, but I have heard of them cracking. so I am looking into these but with no pads.
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Our neighbor is jealous of our nice shiny rotors now, but i did the front and rear but didn't take pictures of any thing else.

Originally Posted by develand

I was thinking about getting the drilled and slotted, but I have heard of them cracking. so I am looking into these but with no pads.
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Those are exactly what i have just put on the girlfriends car. I had a pair on my 2000 Eclipse GT for 5 years and not once did they crack or break or anything else. Maybe it's the pads you're using or something else causing it, but i've had zero issues with these on any cars i've put them on.

If i could i'd upgrade the girlfriends brakes to Brembo's like my STi. But her car is worth less than the brakes would cost, so not worth it.
You guys pay about 200 shipped, i get em for $100 dollars with a friend discount, but i dunno if he'd sell me more than 2 sets without knowing something is up, and i wouldn't defraud a friend like that. I can see about a group buy if there is interest?

Those arent drilled and slotted, just slotted... you put drilled and slotted on hers lol.... so they cant be the exact same lol.

Originally Posted by Hippo Machine

The sway bar is common to rust out and break on these cars, I recommend replacing it with a dorman sway bar, which is solid, and using moog or energy suspension end links. I wouldn't worry about the exhaust yet unless you have a leak. New plugs coils and wires are a good idea, get iridium plugs if you dont wanna have to do them again, and make sure to get stock coils. Struts and coils all around should help with the suspension and maybe upgrading the trailing arms would help with the sway as well.

How's the engine run?

Do you have a link on the sway bar and the end links? I don't know where to find most of this GM stuff at or where to get it.
The engine seems to run ok, it has no real issues that i can tell.
The only thing that might need is the tranny needs some fluid and or needs to be changed. When switching gears sometimes you can feel it jerk real hard.

Originally Posted by develand

Those arent drilled and slotted, just slotted... you put drilled and slotted on hers lol.... so they cant be the exact same lol.

Sorry i glanced at them really fast, yeah not sure about JUST slotted. I always get drilled and slotted. Just a habit since i Auto X all my cars.

Originally Posted by Taz Magister

I think I put ngk tr55s in my gt and are you sure the caliper isn't bad on that side I had one fail out of no where with only 60k miles on the car

I can't tell if it's bad. The car stops fine, and doesn't pull when stopping. When i take the rotor apart and step on the brakes the rotor or cylinder comes out just fine and the tool to push it back it, has zero effort pushing it back in. Is there any other way to tell?

Well, I need new brake rotors. I emailed R1 to see if I can get those 4 without the pads for a cheaper price. Maybe I will look into drilled. I just dont want to risk cracking.

Also, just an FYI, if i can get him to do a group buy on the rotors, he's probably going to set the same criteria as he did on club 3g. a minimum of 10 orders, and it'd be on the E-Line series only most likely.

Originally Posted by Hippo Machine

Here is the link to the swaybar: 1997-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix Sway Bar Kit - Dorman 927-100 - Front, Powdercoated black
If you get it, don't use the bushings it comes with, buy something like these (not sure if right size):Moog K80815 - Sway Bar Bushing Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
And endlinks: Master Pro Chassis K5342 - Sway Bar Link Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I think it's the rear that's broken, because the rear is the one that does it, not the front, but it's not bad idea to switch the front out either. Have anything for the rear?
I can probably get a discount on the bushings from Moog, since they're in Buffalo too! ahaha i have a few friends who work there. Awesome, thanks for that!

I may look into those E-Line Drilled and Slotted rotors from them, but not there pads.

Originally Posted by WRBSTi

Sorry i glanced at them really fast, yeah not sure about JUST slotted. I always get drilled and slotted. Just a habit since i Auto X all my cars.

Hello and welcome to the board. I'm curious as to why you would buy drilled and slotted rotors if you autocross all your cars?

Why wouldn't you? Dissipates heat faster, to keep the rotors cooler and the pads. Auto X puts a lot of strain on the pads and rotors, so having them cooler is better. If you even tell me any reason not to use drilled and slotted rotors i'll pretend you never exist. Myself and many others who run in the STU, and STM and SM classes will prove to you otherwise on a track.

Originally Posted by WRBSTi

Why wouldn't you? Dissipates heat faster, to keep the rotors cooler and the pads. Auto X puts a lot of strain on the pads and rotors, so having them cooler is better. If you even tell me any reason not to use drilled and slotted rotors i'll pretend you never exist. Myself and many others who run in the STU, and STM and SM classes will prove to you otherwise on a track.

Who told you that?

I thought it was pretty evident that drilled and slotted provide cooler braking....