when you buy a flush package, the kit comes with a cleaner that is put in the system and run to temp. power wash the reservoir and "properly" flush 16liters of fresh coolant and the systems clean. drain and refill...you get crud.
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when you buy a flush package, the kit comes with a cleaner that is put in the system and run to temp. power wash the reservoir and "properly" flush 16liters of fresh coolant and the systems clean. drain and refill...you get crud.
which he did not pay for at the shop. he got a flush, not a cleaning.
thats for the diy guys mostly. shops not going that far unless you pay for that extra time.
i said this yesterday too
well theres a flush, and a clean and flush.
you flush it to water, then add prestone cleaner to it, drive it for a few days, re flush and then add coolant. most shops are not going to go that far. but great for the diy guys out there if your full of sludge.
no shop is going this far to do it 100% right if its nasty.
and my coolant flush how too. for those who dont want to pay a damn shop to do it 1/2 ass-ed for good money.
how to flush coolant.
remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.
get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.
then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.
put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.
now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.
now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.
done.
removing the heater core line to burp the system takes 5 minutes...its bad business to return a vehicle to a customer like this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
tell me how do they know its got air in it? they flush it and out the door it goes. its also not winter, who's using the heat or giving a crap if it blows hot now? who?! and it will blow hot in summer time if theres ho water int he core or not, wont it?
he would have been a new tread come October, "help, i got no heat."
the thing is here, dont expect so much from a shop, especially a chain shop like this. they dont give a crap, like a pep boys shop, i pass and laugh at them poor suckers who go there..
for the diy guys you can flush, clean and re fill your coolant the right way for 20 bucks at home.
in this case, the tech would only know it had air if he did like the customer... revved to 4000rpm, which no one does on a refill or when thermocycling so in that regard I will agree.
scotty...if you had brown **** in you cooling system the next day after a flush...you be pissed. that brown **** only forms from contact with air so maybe there is air in the system but it should be pretty clean the next day after a complete system refill for an 2008
from air in the system huh, and you wonder why the core is air bound, lol
ive done my own flush, the way i posted, no cleaner and had boogers for 3 more flushes. that crap is every where. one flush wont clean it up, it takes years to clean out with just coolant changes. and even a cleaner will still leave some crap behind.
that sludge is thick and coats everything, the rad, the inside the engine, the core, the lim everywhere. hell i had snot on the t stat and inside the hoses too.
My first ever work on this car was the LIM gaskets and a coolant flush... Shiz was nasty.
Two more flushes with cleaner, still got gunk.
for me, have seen something that bad was when it was filled with stop leak
So you flush it and the next day its filled with gunk huh?
My GP had green coolant when I bought. Two years later I did the LIM and the coolant bottle was a still sludge fest. That orange crap is nasty!
It took less than a week to see sludge on the bottom of the rad cap.
What did you see 5 minutes after the job was done? The op opened the system right after paying the bill. the system was dirty, full of air and had old coolant in the reservoir.
sound like good work to you?
If crappy tire even has a $4000 flush machine, its probably so old it doesn't work.
good lord, you dont get it at all, stick your finger in the rad tank side, in side it, your finger will come up brown with crap. only way its not is if you installed a new rad and flushed to green or new dex that dont sludge up.
you can be as insulting as you want mr moderator. multiple things make question the work. you posted for the op not to return to the shop?
I agree. When I pulled my rims to have the tires changed, I brought the rims only. I even pulled the center caps. Manager gave me a funny look. I returned a 1/2 hr later and there was the same elderly couple that had been sitting there all day. I shot the same Manager a look of "why-the-^&$ are those poor folks still here?" then he couldn't look at me in the face anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
I seriously have difficulty when people just "bring it in" ..like my brother ..that got charged $135 to change an idler pulley. Yeah, buy a book, join a forum, talk to an old wrench monkey, do whatever it takes to stay the heck outta those places.
As for the brown stuff, slow your roll broseph primem, lol! It really is too bad the guy got bad service, but it's past that joint now. It's not a huge deal to have all that nasty crap still in there. I did LIMs on my 1997 Blazer, flushed again this year and there was still junk coming out in chunks. I know for a fact the heater core on that's going, but the two older (97&99) GTP's I've owned both had similar results. I never did do a "clean" on any of them. But, I just found out my GP is 1 of 3,009 made, and I don't know how many in this color. Better believe I'm doing it in this car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by primem
how old are you? how many shops have you had work done at? and im not insulting you, im trying to make you see the light. you seem to think this is a hi end sports car back at its dealership and are expecting some hi end service to happen. "NOT" its Canadian tire. i aint ever been there but from the way everyone talks about them, they suck balls, they sound a lot like pep boys here. they also suck dick. its all mechanics that cant get hired at a good shop. ( junkies, losers and so on). they over charge and rape you, cause your car dumb and they know it. (im mean people in general, not you. )
theres a reason i dont go to shops and do my own work, this is why. they do crappy work and dont really care. until the day i cant turn a wrench myself comes, ill be doing all my own work.
in the end he got what he paid for, if you cant see that im so sorry for you.
Good guess Scotty. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
Canadian Tire is also very well know for up-selling repairs, as the "mechanics" get bonuses for doing so. And I use the term "mechanic" very loosely.
FYI, you can also buy home, yard and kitchen items at Canadian Tire. Your one stop shop! LOL
again with the compliments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
you have not seen the car, neither have I. Speculation is all it is. I am posting is my opinion.
its is quite possible the guy pulled the lower rad hose, partially drained the system and introduced air into the core. (no mention of this concern before the service) Unlikely for this to happen with a flush machine.
if he would have pulled the reservoir and powerwashed it, it would be clean out in the parking lot. no way a non-pressurized coolant reservoir is dirty as the system has not been hot enough to open the cap vent valve.
have you been in a can tire? I inspected one c-tire automotive dept after the business was sold. Outdated and non functioning equipment, Inadequate service information, no training in place for techs. the management didn't even know enough to shut the compressor off each night...if the air line blew...the building could have burned down.
...I am just trying to enlighten you...........sound about right?
something smells.....
like
http://i.imgur.com/O3DHIA5.gif
btw im joke here. since this is over a page long and most of the advice i read was good i cant see this going on much longer and i thought i would make things a bit more fun