Thread: How to replace valve stem seals on cylinder heads

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  1. #1 How to replace valve stem seals on cylinder heads 
    GT Level Member andesmint's Avatar
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    Hey everyone, I have so far had a great experience with this forum and all of the users. A few have been great help with all the questions I've had on doing a top swap in my 2000 GP GT. As a result I'd like to start giving back to the GP community however I can. This will be my first write up so if anybody see's an issue with it let me know so i can do my best to fix it.

    The heads i am working with are L-67 heads, however the techniques used will work on most cylinder heads. I didn't include info on how i cleaned any of the parts as i believe that is personal preference. I ran all of the parts through a parts washer, then did additional cleaning with a wire brush, WD-40, and brake cleaner where it was applicable. gunk engine degreaser works great as well.


    *All images are linked to photobucket as this worked the best for me* - sorry

    Tools required:
    Valve Spring Compressor tool
    Slip joint pliers (or similar pliers to remove valve shaft seals)

    Optional tools:
    Magnetic pick up tool (helps to remove valve locks)
    Small rubber mallet (Helps safely remove stubborn valves)

    Here is an image of what the heads looked like when i started:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...g.html?filters[user]=71589259&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3

    Here is an image of one of the valves before I've started work on it:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=9

    To start the process get the valve spring remover on the valve. Ensure that the arms that grab the spring have a good hold, and that the prongs that rest on the retainer have a good foothold. You may have a different tool than me, but it may look like this. (I rented one from Oriely's auto parts)

    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=5

    Now compress the valve spring by turning the nut at the top of the tool. Make sure it doesn't slip off in anyways or pieces could go flying.

    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=8

    Once this is done you can remove the valve spring locks. Using the magnetic pick up tool helped a lot as there is not very much room and it ensured I wouldn't drop them.

    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...ml?sort=3&o=10

    Now the valve spring and the retainer at the top can be easily removed. The next piece we have to remove is the valve shaft retainer/seal. I did this by carefully wiggling it and pulling up using a set of slip joint pliers.

    Valve shaft retainer/seal:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=3

    Using pliers to remove the seal:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=7

    The removed seal:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...ml?sort=3&o=14

    Valve without seal in place:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=1

    Now the valve can either be pushed out by hand, or a rubber mallet may be used if it is for some reason being stubborn. Once all the valves have been removed, it is a good idea to perform cleaning at this time, as you wont have to worry about wrecking the seals and you can be more thorough as the valves can be cleaned easier as well as the heads.

    Running the heads through a parts washer:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=4

    Once Everything has been clean it is time to put it all back together. It is also a good idea to replace the valve stem seals as they may have been damaged upon removal, or could just be worn out.

    Start reassembling the heads by replacing the valve stem seals. This can be done by pushing them down by hand, making sure they are fully seated. Make sure the seals, as well as their seats on the head are clean.


    New valve stem seal in place:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=0

    Next put the valve spring as well as the retainer back on and compress them using the valve spring compressor.

    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/AndesMint/media/instsprcomp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=18


    Once that is complete put the valve spring locks back in one at a time. This can be tricky, and may take a few minutes to figure out what works best for you, but you should be able to get them in quickly after you figure it out.

    One lock in place:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...tml?sort=3&o=7

    Both lock in place:
    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/And...ml?sort=3&o=20

    Now that this is done you can release the valve spring from the tool making sure the locks stay in place. You may hear a clicking sound, which is good as it is the sound of the locks properly seating, however it wont make that sound every time if they are already properly seated. just make sure to double check at each valve.

    So, just go through this process for the rest of the valves and you will be all set! here is an image of a completed and cleaned head. I have it soaked in oil to keep it from rusting as it will be sitting on the shelf in a bag until I accumulate the rest of the parts I need for my top swap.


    http://s291.photobucket.com/user/AndesMint/media/rebuilthead.jpg.html?sort=3&o=14


    Thanks again for everyones help! Again, let me know if there are any issues.

    -Andes
    Last edited by andesmint; 10-07-2014 at 08:09 PM.
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  2. #2 Re: How to rebuild cylinder heads 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    FWIW on a technical side (truly this doesn't matter but may confuse folks) what you call a retainer is a lock and what you call a top plate is a retainer.

    Did you happen to grind the valves or check them for sealing?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  3. #3 Re: How to rebuild cylinder heads 
    GT Level Member andesmint's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up, i will amend that. i did check for sealing, they were all in good shape so i was lucky.
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  4. #4 Re: How to rebuild cylinder heads 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Just a thought. When I think of rebuilding, I think grinding valves/checking them, looking for cracks between them should be common practice in the 3800 world.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  5. #5 Re: How to rebuild cylinder heads 
    GT Level Member andesmint's Avatar
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    yeah i agree with you on that. i did use a wire wheel on the bench grinder to really clean up the valves, and a wire wheel on the dye grinder to clean up the valve seats on the head. other than that it was fine. i might take them apart at some point to port them before i do the rebuild but im having a hard time on finding info on how to do that. i have the tools, just wanna make sure I do it right. Any tips?
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  6. #6 Re: How to rebuild cylinder heads 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    A machine shop is best IMO. That is because our heads typically need a valve job to recut them and get them to seal good. It's almost a given from the experience I have had with 5-8 sets of heads. Also it is good to have them check the guides for slop etc. Magnafluxing (aka checking for cracks) is also huge. Often we can't see the cracks without this process and 3800 heads are known for cracks between the valves.

    My typical work up is
    Disassembly
    Hot tank (cleaning)
    Magnaflux
    Valve job
    Consider having the spring seats cut to accomodate the springs you are using. (stock height is around 1.72xx", with modded retainers 1.78xx"
    Consider having the valve guides cut to accomodate more lift.
    Paint and reassembly (usually with new springs/retainers)
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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