I was given a really good write up from scottydoggs and wanted to post it for other people to use if needed. When and if I attempt it I will take pics. If anyone else has any advice or actual pictures please post and let me know. It'll be after new year when I attempt it. Please post pics of how to if u got em
put car on jack stands, take front wheels off. pop both tie rods off the knuckles. drop the cradle 3 inches, with a jack under the middle of the frame, loosen up the rear cradle bolts, lower the jack so the frame lowers to the bolts, leave the jack under the frame, let the jack carry the weight.
take the sway bar bolts out from the caps on the frame, and the end links. either push it up out of the way, or remove it, push the boot on the steering box part to remove the steering shaft to the rack, 10 or 11 mm socket, and 12 inches worth of extensions will get it out.
then take the 2 lines off the rack, 18 mm line wrench works best, then take the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the cradle off.
yup, the back 1/2 of the sub frame, its not hard to do and really does add some room to work. its tight under there. the regal and gp are 18 mm bolts.
ive dropped my sub frame 3 or 4 times already to do work on my car, its no big deal. im sure you'll have them turn handle jack stands to use.
once its out of the mount, you need to twist it through the wheel well on the drivers side. its tight, but it will fit.
reverse to put back in the new one.
tips. start out with your wheels straight. lock the wheel do not play with the steering wheel at all, spinning it round and round like a little kid on a ride will break the clock spring. lock it keep it locked.
line up the new rack to the old rack, match up the shaft on the rack, the part where the steering shaft sits over, make them match as close as possible. mark where the tie rods were match them up as best you can as well, then install it. getting the shaft back on the new rack can either make or break you, id spread the end open just a bit when the rack is removed. its a slipper shaft, so it will slide up and down, pull it down on to the racks nub have someone wiggle the steering wheel, the smallest amount as you pull it back on the rack, mine slid on like butter, i changed my intermediate shaft some time later, and the fight was on.
after the new rack is in fill the res on the pump, this is wheels off car off, crank the steering wheel lock to lock 5 times, fill the res up again, start it up, turn the wheel lock to lock, 15 times, check, and top off the res, that should bleed it out.
its easy, you put that turn jack up the frame, dead center of the rear section. then take the bolts out, about 2 inches, the bolts are quite long. then lower the jack and the frame to the bolts, but leave the weight on the jack, having the bolts still in is for safety.
dropping the sub frame will make removing the sway bar caps and the sub frame bolts much easier, as well as help adding some extra room to get the rack out the wheel well.
its like birthing a child, its that tight getting it in and out.
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