Thread: How to install ZZP FMHE and wire Intercooler Pump

First I have to give a big shout out to scottydoggs for helping me with wiring, Thanks!

First off this is for the ZZP stage 3 FMHE and Bosch pump. Any style should reflect what I show here, just fittings, placement, etc might be a little different.

First thing, get the front bumper off. This is easily accomplished by removing all of the bolts holding the fender lining to the bumper, as well as a 10mm bolt on each fender. Up top there are three bolts that connect to a shroud. Could be push pins up top, I had pins, but I have seen bolts before as well. Removing the headlight assembly isn't neccessary, but helps to get the bumper off. Just undo the top two bolts on each side and move them out of the way. The bumper slides off of guides on the fenders.

With the bumper off you will need to remove the styrofoam support. This is held in by push pins. With that off you will notice under the core support there is a radiator shroud, it needs to come off. It is also held in place by push pins.

Now comes some fun. Underneath the core support you will notice some holes, find the ones that directly center your FMHE to the car. Hold it up there in a mock position to check. Use a 7/16" tap to tap the support holes for bolts, the support metal is thick and needs to be tapped. I used 1" 7/16" coarse thread bolts. I also tapped the slots on the heat exchanger itself to add even extra threads for it to grab. Once this is complete mock up your heat exchanger with bolts and mark where you need to drill on the hood latch. What size hole you make is your call. I just drilled it and ran a bolt and nut through. Once this is complete you should come out with something like this.





With the heat exchanger mounted, it now comes down to pump placement. Since the Bosch pump is a centrifugal type pump it needs a little gravity to be primed. Always mount your pump so the inlet of the pump is on the bottom fitting of your HE. This way regardless of how much water/antifreeze is in the system it still has water to pull so you will not burn the pump up. Here is where I mounted mine





I used a 3/4" elbow to correctly align the coolant lines without having kinks as seen in the second picture. Line routing is up to you, but to correctly get mine to work I had to use an elbow.

With this fancy pantsed out of the way, you now get to have even more fun, Wiring! As always suggested on here go with a relay. A typical junkyard relay works, but for the sake of my work I bought an auxillary light wiring kit that came with everything. I had a lot of trouble understanding this so I hope this can clear it up for everyone. Thanks to scottydoggs I finally got it down. Here is my relay



The bottome pin number 30 will be from battery with inline fuse to relay. Pin 86 goes from relay to chassis ground. 87 goes to intercooler pump positive. And 85 needs to run to a source that goes off when the ignition is off. Fortunate enough for me I had a zzp drop down harness installed so I wired 85 to it.

Relay


Ground


Pump positive and it's own ground


Wire off of pin 85 going to cabin


In cabin wired


Now loom it up! Don't ever let wires be exposed.




That should do it for today. Sit back and look how purdy it is

Guy, you are missing a motor.

but the inter coolers all wired up now.

i'd hide the relay somewhere, or under the fuse box, so its kinda outa sight. inside the fender i think would be perfect.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Guy, you are missing a motor.

It'll have a motor in due time a magna charged one at that

Running a power wire through the firewall is a risk. Ensure that if you end up in a situation where your IC isn't running you won't pop pistons. Aka make your tune so it's not relying on it. I'd suggest putting your wire that goes through the firewall to pin 85 to a ground with a switch that you can control. This way as you are loading tunes, you can turn the IC off. Pin 86 can run to an igintion on wire in the fusebox. I like the way PRJ does it by running to a fuel injector fuse. That way if you are loading a tune, you don't have to turn off the pump. Fuel injectors won't be running.

Please..wrap that relay up with a bunch of electrical tape to keep it from getting wet and shorting out. Can't tell you how many times guys come in with problems and I find a relay that got wet, shorted a fuse and caused issues.

I activate pump relays with one of the wires on the fuel pump relay so.

so to avoid running the pump while i want the radio on (acc), i should put in an add-a-circuit to the fuel pump fuse?

your car has a radio?

this was a huge help in installing the S2 IC from ZZP, thanks for all the help in this thread!