Thread: Engine Mount Replacement [*]

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  1. #21 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    I say it with pictures Abrasive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTPrix View Post
    Wow - thanks. I might attempt this later this winter. I should crawl under and see if I am leaking hydraulic fluid out.

    Dumb question: is there one of these mounts on each side, or is it just a tranny mount on the other side?
    Just the tranny mount.

    Master Certified Auto Glass Technician - 23+ yrs in the biz.
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  2. #22 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    ok thanks!
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  3. #23 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    SE Level Member keenan00gtp's Avatar
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    what are the advantages of solid motor mounts?
    so far: borla catback exhaust, audio swap.
    waiting for warmer temps
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  4. #24 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    I say it with pictures Abrasive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keenan00gtp View Post
    what are the advantages of solid motor mounts?
    Less engine movement and they don't leak the fluid and collapse later.

    Master Certified Auto Glass Technician - 23+ yrs in the biz.
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  5. #25 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    Donating Users Sykkel's Avatar
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    Hey Abrasive, I just wanted to say thanks for the great post. I have been searching for my possible clunking issue with no luck till I came across your how to. I quickly ran out to my car and grabbed a hold of my alternator bracket and found I could rock my engine back and forth substantially. I got the solid motor mount from autozone (they actually had it in stock) and put it in today with the help from your instructions. I got a couple tips that might help others.

    1. Make sure you unscrew the little plastic screw in the middle of the plastic retainers for the shield. I was a little anxious and pryed the first one off with the grommet remover and snaped the back off of one.

    2. I had problems getting the new mount to fit in the bottom holes because they were flared out a little. I took 2 small 2x4's, one laying on the ground and one my dad held, next I oriented the mount vertically so the side of one screw rested on the lower 2x4 and the other my dad held on the side of the upper screw, then I gave the upper block a good couple wacks with a sledge. This angled the bolts just enough to get them to line up perfectly and the wood protected the threads.

    3. When lowering the motor back on the mount my dad was able to see the upper mount bolts from above the engine and guide the engine onto the bolts using the sledge handle. I slowly lowered the jack and it glided right onto the bolts.

    I also took a couple pics to share some before and afters because who doesn't love before and after pics.

    Old Mount (143k Miles)


    New Mount


    Side by Side


    Mount Pan before


    Mount Pan after

    Last edited by Sykkel; 06-04-2009 at 09:25 AM. Reason: add pics
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  6. #26 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    THX Abrasive. Your post on the mount replacement worked like a charm. It took 45min. i've looked all over for that info.
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  7. #27 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    BTW my gtp was vibrating and that worked a lil. any tother ideas of vibration sources?
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  8. #28 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    SE Level Member alacran's Avatar
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    does anyone have a picture of a bad tranny mount?
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  9. #29 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    what was your reason for replacing the mount, did you have excessive vibrating when stopping
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  10. #30 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    GXP Level Member Iron Indian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sykkel View Post
    Hey Abrasive, I just wanted to say thanks for the great post. I have been searching for my possible clunking issue with no luck till I came across your how to. I quickly ran out to my car and grabbed a hold of my alternator bracket and found I could rock my engine back and forth substantially. I got the solid motor mount from autozone (they actually had it in stock) and put it in today with the help from your instructions. I got a couple tips that might help others.

    1. Make sure you unscrew the little plastic screw in the middle of the plastic retainers for the shield. I was a little anxious and pryed the first one off with the grommet remover and snaped the back off of one.

    2. I had problems getting the new mount to fit in the bottom holes because they were flared out a little. I took 2 small 2x4's, one laying on the ground and one my dad held, next I oriented the mount vertically so the side of one screw rested on the lower 2x4 and the other my dad held on the side of the upper screw, then I gave the upper block a good couple wacks with a sledge. This angled the bolts just enough to get them to line up perfectly and the wood protected the threads.

    3. When lowering the motor back on the mount my dad was able to see the upper mount bolts from above the engine and guide the engine onto the bolts using the sledge handle. I slowly lowered the jack and it glided right onto the bolts.

    I also took a couple pics to share some before and afters because who doesn't love before and after pics.

    Old Mount (143k Miles)


    New Mount


    Side by Side


    Mount Pan before


    Mount Pan after




    Good job, nice pics!

    Tell me, when and where were you hearing this clunking noise?
    Shawn W. Larsen

    2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2/A4... Stalled/Cam Only: 406 RWHP , 370 RWTQ

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  11. #31 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    GT Level Member silvermistchick's Avatar
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    guess i know whats making mine shake and act stupid off takeoffs. will be getting a solid mount next paycheck. and my dogbones are the offset ones for lowered vehicles, im going to junkyark to swap to reg lenght dogbones.
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  12. #32 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    Per the motor mount replacement..... I did the passenger mount and am having trouble with my dog bones aligning as well. The engine is swaying way toom much front to back. even at a slow take off i can feel it moving. ?????????? Should i go ahead and change the tranny mount to.

    Thx Abrasive btw for the mm replacement thread easy to follow instructions. It was a real bi^atch to remove the rivets tho.
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  13. #33 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    lol rivets quote was wrong thread
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  14. #34 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    Click picture to enlarge

    This is the motor mount on my 06 GP GT - As you can see the motor mount to motor bracket different and has much tighter clearances for the bolts to the motor mount red circles - I wasn't even able to get an end wrench in there.

    So when you reach the point on an 04+ where you're stumped follow these. I may have gotten carried away on the detail, and sorry for the lack of step by step pictures. But this is in addition to the existing how-to it is not a complete how-to.

    First Remove the locking nuts connecting the motor mount to the cradle.

    Note for removing the old mount i removed the bracket from the motor before releasing the motor mount from the cradle - this is very bad for the threads on the horizontal bolt connecting the bracket to the motor.

    Then Apply enough pressure to make the motor mount come free from the cradle.

    Then remove the nuts circled in yellow to drop the bracket off the motor.

    You now have clearance to remove the nuts from the top of the motor mount that connects the bracket, i did this after removing the motor mount from the car, which requires jacking the motor up for more clearance.

    Re-assembly with ZZP Poly Motor mount - The motor mount is bigger and caused a clearance issue with the rear bolt that mounts the bracket to the motor while the bracket is torqued down onto the motor mount.

    So In order to get the assembly back into the motor with a zzp poly motor mount(without taking a chunk out of it)

    Place the motor mount without the bracket into the cradle

    Then place the bracket over the studs for the motor mount and barely thread the nuts on.

    Loosely put the vertical bolts attaching the bracket to the motor in.

    Fully tighten the nuts to tighten the bracket to the motor mount - I had to get a 15mm Bent end wrench for clearance - my straight 15 would hit the boot and didnt have enough clearance to torque it.

    Mostly tighten the vertical bolts from the bracket to the motor

    Adjust jack height to align center hole put the center horizontal bolt into connect the bracket - I had mine on a floor jack and had to pull the floorjack to move the motor trans forward to get alignment.

    Fully torque down all the bracket bolts - i had to tighten the rear one with an open end wrench, a thin closed wrench may get onto it though.

    Lower the engine all the way

    Put the nuts onto the cradle / motor and torque them down.
    Last edited by GeeBee; 03-19-2010 at 03:33 PM. Reason: Tweaked end of procedure after actually doing it.
    2006 Grand Prix Gt - Wizair, Solid Poly Mounts
    1996 Olds 98 Regency Elite - Dieing of Car Cancer and old age.
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  15. #35 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    Very informative write up. I have a 99 gtp .To make a long story short while doing intake and oil pan gaskets i fiquired i would change the front motor mount becacause it had a rip in it. i ordered a hydraulic one online and after i put it in it seemed that the passenger side dipped a little lower than the drivers side. Ive seen inoperable parts come off the shelf before so i thought maybe i bought a bad mount. then i decided to replace both engine and tranny mounts with solid rubber mounts and now it seems the motor shifted over a little to the passenger side because there is a very short clearance to the coolant resovoir. any ideas?
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  16. #36 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abrasive View Post
    This writeup on Engine Motor Mount Replacement has been added to the How To section and can be found HERE.
    How come when I click here nothing comes up
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  17. #37 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    the how to's haven't been swapped over to the new format yet.

    i too wish they would work.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  18. #38 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I just wrote a how to on this in someones thread. Please search for a recent question on this.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  19. #39 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    DUI BABY Bio248's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    the how to's haven't been swapped over to the new format yet.

    i too wish they would work.
    they arent going to be either.

    this is the how-to section.
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  20. #40 Re: Engine Mount Replacement [*] 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bio248 View Post
    they arent going to be either.

    this is the how-to section.
    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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