Thread: L67 motor swap (with video)

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  1. #1 L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    Things needed:

    7mm
    8mm
    10mm
    13mm
    15mm
    18mm
    19mm
    Flathead screwdriver
    Fuel line seperator
    a few 5" extensions to spare
    Cherry picker
    Pry bar
    L67 (obviously)

    1. Alright, where to start haha. First things first, removing the harness. Injectors you simply push the clip in and pull up. everything else (ie. maf, iat, fans, egr, evap, etc.) are just pull up style clips. Make sure to get them all. Knock sensor, speed sensor, both o2 sensors are all located in the passenger wheel well. Also while you're at it. Be sure to get the vacuum lines and fuel lines

    2. Next is the mounts and what not. Dog bones are 13mm, dog bone brackets, motor mount is two 15mm. If you have an STB, that's 4x 13mm bolts to remove

    3. Disconnect the throttle cables and intake piping. Go around to the passenger side and seperate the power steering pump (2x 13mm's) and a/c compressor (5x 15mm's) from the block.

    4. While you're on the driverside go ahead and remove the 4 18mm bolts holding the trans to the motor. Once done, go around to the passenger side with a few extensions and through the wheel well start feeding them through to get the last trans bolt just under the rear exhaust manifold.

    5. Almost ready to be pulled. Go ahead and hop under the car to do that last few things. DP is two 13mm's. Can be a pain to get to even with extensions. Next, the tq converter/flex plate bolts. They can be a bit difficult as the motor will turn with any bit of pulling to the left or right. there's two ways to go about this. You can either have someone stand up top with a 24mm and a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt to keep it from spinning, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the starter and flexplate teeth

    6. Motor is ready to be pulled. Simply attach the engine hoist to the two support brackets. One is located on the passenger rear just beside the firewall and the other on the driverside front next to the driverside fan.

    7. Before pulling, with a big screwdriver or some sort of prying tool, seperate the trans from the motor.. Make sure to leave it wedged as you're going to need to keep the flexplate clear from the trans bellhousing when pulling.

    8. Once the motor is out you're going to need to grab a few things off of it before you continue. First is the MAP sensor. Located on the left side on the upper intake manifold/plenum on top of the PCV. Be careful when removing as it can seperate into two pieces.

    9. Next thing is the flexplate. The L67 uses a larger torque converter (258mm instead of the L36's 245mm) so the bolt holes will not line up. There's 10 15mm bolts if I recall holding this in place.

    10. Lastly is the simplest, the plastic fuel line connectors on the fuel rail. L67 uses a 4 point metal connector while the L36 only has two point plastic ones Should just come off by prying a screwdriver between them and the fuel rail ends.

    11. Once the L36 flexplate is attatched, the L67 is ready to go in...

    12. Drop the motor in slowly making sure to not catch any of the harness or fuel/vacuum lines.Can be tough trying to line the motor up to the trans while trying to get the two motor mount bolts in the holes.

    13. repeat the previous steps 5 and up backward to finish up

    14. Once you get to the fuel rail remember to attach the plastic connectors so you can use the stock fuel lines.

    15. Next is the MAP sensor. Normally the L67 MAP sensor mounts in the back and also has a different connector. The simple solution is to just take the line leading to the BBV solenoid and plug it into the L36 MAP sensor.

    16. While talking about the BBV solenoid, just unhook the vacuum line leading from the actual solenoid to the sensor and throw the sensor away. I've done this to both my GTP and SE and no codes are poped and also runs just the same.

    18. You're done! add fluid and hopefully it starts.

    Also, just for a little visual, here are some pics as well as video updates from when I did this.















































    YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.1]

    YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.2]

    YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.4]
    Last edited by ninnyGTP; 11-09-2009 at 03:27 PM.
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
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  2. #2 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    SE Level Member Boostd1's Avatar
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    Wow haha you weren't kidding about your boredom! Nice job though Remember kiddies, L32 is the same exact instructions. Just swap out coolant sensors

    Oh and also, try not to shoot yourself in the face while attempting step #4, cause you WILL be tempted to...

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  3. #3 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    PittState Automotive Tech GAFF's Avatar
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    You make it look to easy
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  4. #4 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    haha yeah, that rear trans bolt hd me stuck easily for about 45 minutes. Mainly because you can't get any real leverage on it due to all the extensions without it slipping off
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
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  5. #5 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users JDCMoney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gafford44 View Post
    You make it look to easy
    x2 - Good job
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  6. #6 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTP Level Member SuperSport's Avatar
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    Wow I just watched all the videos including the startup video. This seems easier than a top swap. Did you swap the PCM too?

    I want to do this to my GT...
    2001 Grand Prix GT Coupe
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  7. #7 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    SE Level Member Boostd1's Avatar
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    This is great info kiddies. Go ahead, do a motor swap. There fun! In this case I swapped out my 140K miles L36 top swap for a 26k miles L32.








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  8. #8 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    Wow I just watched all the videos including the startup video. This seems easier than a top swap. Did you swap the PCM too?

    I want to do this to my GT...
    Still rolling on the original SE PCM. You see the man above this post.. He tuned my PCM using GTP tables haha.
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
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  9. #9 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Nice write up. Would you please fix the trans to engine bolts to be 18mm's. And the AC compressor is only 3 15mm's. No need to remove the bracket before it's out.

    I do the fuel lines before hooking up the hoist, along with a few other things like supporting the trans. ...but it's a great overall writeup.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  10. #10 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    I couldn't remember some of the bolt sizes haha, but fixed. As for the compressor, i'm referring to the 3 holding it to the bracket. I just leave the bracket attached to the block
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
    01 SVT Cobra #3654, B&M Ripper, K&N FIPK2, MAC O/R xpipe
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  11. #11 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTX Level Member nicksilvergt99's Avatar
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    This seems easier than a top swap. Good write up sir
    "This shocker crap is for high school kids, it's all about the double gauntlets, that's right, 2 fists forearm deep, someone make me a sticker. double gauntlets > shocker"
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  12. #12 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
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    Depends on how you look at it. They both have their tough areas. Either or, you're going to be happy. I just think the whole motor is the more reliable route even if you lose the higher compression advantage of the L36 bottom end
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
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  13. #13 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTX Level Member nicksilvergt99's Avatar
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    Ya it seems like mote could go wrong with a top swap
    "This shocker crap is for high school kids, it's all about the double gauntlets, that's right, 2 fists forearm deep, someone make me a sticker. double gauntlets > shocker"
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  14. #14 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTP Level Member SuperSport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninnyGTP View Post
    Still rolling on the original SE PCM. You see the man above this post.. He tuned my PCM using GTP tables haha.

    Hmm too bad nobody lives close to me to tune my pcm.
    2001 Grand Prix GT Coupe
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  15. #15 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    Hmm too bad nobody lives close to me to tune my pcm.
    I live in California and Marc lives in Colorado haha. Just find someone who can tune it then ship it back, either that or get an Overkill PCM, those seem to be the best box tunes on the market
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
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  16. #16 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninnyGTP View Post
    I couldn't remember some of the bolt sizes haha, but fixed. As for the compressor, i'm referring to the 3 holding it to the bracket. I just leave the bracket attached to the block
    If you ever wonder about what bolt size something is..just ask. I've done this too many times.

    In the few write up's I've done for folks, it seems to help them move quicker if you group the areas of the car with the tools needed.

    Like start with to top
    Electrical connectors at sensors, fuel rails, alternator
    Under:
    13mm socket, 15mm socket, extension, 18mm socket, 8mm socket, starter
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  17. #17 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTP Level Member SuperSport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninnyGTP View Post
    Just find someone who can tune it then ship it back, either that or get an Overkill PCM, those seem to be the best box tunes on the market
    All Im looking to do is swap the l36 with the l67, just like you did, with stock gtp performance. I dont want to do rockers, downpipe and all that crap. Would their tune be for a stock l67? If yes, then I may just do the swap!
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  18. #18 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    All Im looking to do is swap the l36 with the l67, just like you did, with stock gtp performance. I dont want to do rockers, downpipe and all that crap. Would their tune be for a stock l67? If yes, then I may just do the swap!
    You could go about getting a stock L67 tune but you'd need to make sure to mention you have 3.29 gears.. GTP's only have 2.93
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
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  19. #19 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    Donating Users ninnyGTP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    If you ever wonder about what bolt size something is..just ask. I've done this too many times.

    In the few write up's I've done for folks, it seems to help them move quicker if you group the areas of the car with the tools needed.

    Like start with to top
    Electrical connectors at sensors, fuel rails, alternator
    Under:
    13mm socket, 15mm socket, extension, 18mm socket, 8mm socket, starter
    Yeah, i've got 5 under my belt haha. Sometimes you just have those brainfarts I suppose.

    That's actually a good idea though. Keep that in mind for future write-ups (too lazy to rewrite this one)
    98 Grand Prix GTP L32, GenV, n*, 3.2", 1.9 rr's, 3.29 gears. All that jazz SOLD
    99 Mustang GT Steeda UDPs, 3.73s, Pypes O/R xpipe, Accufab plenum, Steeda CAI, B&M ripper, MHS s2 cams, 10.5:1 compression (290whp/310wtq) SOLD
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  20. #20 Re: L67 motor swap (with video) 
    GTP Level Member SuperSport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninnyGTP View Post
    You could go about getting a stock L67 tune but you'd need to make sure to mention you have 3.29 gears.. GTP's only have 2.93
    So just ask for stock GTP tables with 3.29 gears and Id be set?
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