ok take some photo for him while he is fixing it so I can see how to change it
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04-03-2011
ok take some photo for him while he is fixing it so I can see how to change it
04-03-2011
?? There are pics all thru the first post.
04-03-2011
no but for the new one the way he will change it I mean the red light
04-04-2011
The red lights are all LED's. The procedure would be about the same.
So went to my friend's last night and attempted the fix. Ran into a few minor issues and only replaced the one bulb that was out. After I put it back together, only that bulb worked. DOH!. I said fu%k it and ordered the GM style bulbs off of ebay and we are going to take it back apart and replace all 3 with the OEM style bulb next weekend.
A little hint that wasn't mentioned in the write up is that the volume and tuning knobs have to be pulled off before the circuit board can be pulled off the faceplate.
Last edited by stealthee; 04-04-2011 at 05:11 AM. Reason: q
08-21-2011
so I'm with Swiggles. but i payed more per, but only ordered 4 from allied under part number 749-0014
CML Innovative Technologies - 8640 - Bulb - Optoelectronics & Lighting - Allied Electronics
looks perfect!
Thanks again OP!
11-11-2011
honestly, the guys over at the Corvette forums had this right. Forget replacing the "bulbs" with more "bulbs" and replace them with LEDs so that you won't have to worry about them going out again for 30 years or so. Just put a resistor in line with a white LED and make sure you have the polarity right.
I plan on doing this to my own radio and HVAC unit over the holidays. They both have several bulbs out but I'll be darned if I'm replacing them with more filament bulbs...
Here's the thread. Guy used blue LEDs which I wouldn't do here, but you get the idea...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...p-warning.html
PS - I know this works because we did it with my brother's corvette HVAC unit about a year ago. Looked great when we were done.
Last edited by Ashman; 11-11-2011 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Add link to corvette forums thread.
11-12-2011
I was planing to change the light by myself I mean the LED but I don't have the perfect tool to do it and also the display bulb. Unfortunately I do it in a wrong way and instead of fix it I burn the light. What I did I bought a refurbished radio for $18.50 from ebay I took the chip inside and change it with mine and sold it again for $12 so the cost around $5. is it good?
12-17-2011
This is an easy fix if you have used a soldering iron before. It's good for putting light where light has burned out. However, the 25ma light is too dark. If you can find 70ma lights, you'll be much better off. I'm just happy to have my display back.
12-17-2011
Nice write up...
08-29-2012
Originally Posted by swiggles
i would like to know if the bulbs you bought on ebay worked correctly. Were they bright enough? Did they work as good as the stock bulbs?
Thanks
chuck
08-29-2012
Swiggs is still an active member, but.....
08-29-2012
Did the bulbs work correctly? Did they produce the right amount of light?
thanks
chuck
01-26-2013
Good read. Wife's Climate Control lights are burning out. I might give this a try for them.
01-26-2013
This will help me fix my radio. Thx for the writeup!
OverKilled, HAI, Ported Throttle body, Ported intake, ZZP DP, Magnaflow, BMR ta's, GMPP STB's, CCS springs, tinted tailights, roof rails, TEP cool'r, G8 hood. Glass Gearbox.
06-07-2013
Hey all. I just wanted to add my thanks for the right up and what I did for it. I used these bulbs from Radio Shack, but I wouldn't do it again.
12V Microlamps (2-Pack) : Microlamps | RadioShack.com
These are absolutely tiny bulbs, but the are the right brightness and do work. They are so tiny, that the leads are hard to work with. I cut up small sections of a WD-40 straw to insulate them. Otherwise, they'd bend and flex and contact each other. Since this was all I could get from Radio Shack, I'd recommend looking elsewhere for something larger, like the size of a grain of rice. I picked them based on current draw (60 mA) as a representation of brightness. In something this small, that ends up pretty bright. For something larger, I'd say look for 60-75 mA.
Anyways, it all went great with the write up. I never would have thought that I could pull the LCD screen off that easily and just replace the lights. I only takes a couple of hours and some solder. Hopefully it wouldn't that long with some larger leads on the lights. In addition to all in the write up, I'd highly recommend that you buy some solder wick (NTE SW01-5 #3 Green No-clean Solder Wick (5 ft.) : Solder Wicks | RadioShack.com), or a tiny, tiny drill bit. I couldn't find my wick, and didn't have a tiny drill bit, so that was a big slow down too.
07-28-2013
Thanks to Bio248 for the detailed instructions and photos that gave me bravery to try repairing the display on my '04 GP GT. I'll pass on a few lessons learned for anybody interested:
1. Take care with prying off the cover on the radio chassis. The side walls are just rough stamped out and might have sharp edges, as in cut thumb.
2. Don't waste time and effort on installing the mentioned Radio Shack 25 mA bulbs. They are too weak for daytime display. They just show at night.
3. "Grain of wheat" 3 mm bulbs are the key, for sure. I didn't find any with solid wires either - only stranded. Instead of eBay, I found the web site of "Ken's Electronic Parts", at Kalamazoo, Michigan. Since I was driving by on a trip, I wanted to bring my burnt ones and compare size and selection. Aside from the mentioned 12 V 75 mA versions, they also cary 14 V 80 mA ones (PH495B) for reasonable price. Since the Radio Shack package mentioned the 25 mA ones were rated at 5000 hr, and my GP has > 4000 engine hours on it, and the voltage regulator is typically putting out > 14 V while driving, I decided to give the 14V ones a try.
4. If you go for the 80 mA versions, don't cause yourself aggrevation like I did by tinning the stranded wires - then they are a pane to get through the circuit board holes, even after reaming out with a pin. They are mounted and giving good visibility, similar in contrast to the upper display and other red lights around the dash.
Again thanks for posting the instructions! DD
08-20-2013
Thanks for the write up! However 25ma and 75ma doesn't help much when it comes to light brightness. I'd prefer that to be in mcd.
LED draws around 25ma and it's far brighter than a 25ma incandescent bulbs. I need to figure which is + power and which is - power as LED are specific in polarity, unlike incandescent bulbs.
Just remembered, incandescent bulbs in USA 10-12 Christmas light set are about 12v-14v each and they can be available in replacement bulb multi-pack for a couple dollars, and the mini bulb always had bare solid core wire for easy soldering. (Or cannibalize your old decoration that aren't used anymore) I live about 20 minutes drive from Bronner's a major year round Christmas store so I could get spare bulb anytime. I'll give this a try. The only issue would be it's a bit taller than OEM bulbs but if it works, it works.no need to wait 3-4 weeks for bulbs shipped from China that may end up too dim.
Last edited by genki; 08-20-2013 at 07:48 PM. Reason: remembered something that might work for quick and cheap fix
03-12-2014
I'm going to bump this thread. I need to do this and need to know what are the best bulbs for this fix. Can anybody lead me in the correct direction?
Originally Posted by Sven The Sexman
03-14-2014
I didn't try LEDs, so don't pretend to know "the best", but the 14v 80 am ones I used are still working for me. (Two previous posts) DD
01-27-2016
Getting ready to replace my lights. Couple of them burned out. Here is a thread on adding a http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...=1#post1141391 aux input. I think it would be cool and might as well do it at the same time. I got the lights, still need to find a aux, but I was looking at your post seeing what gotcha are waiting to pulling the radio and faceplate. I just wanted to verify the header location the "aux input" described and our 04+ is the same as 03- I like the idea of a adding a blue tooth. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...=1#post1367018
I guessing on yours it would have been the white and one black wires?
Looking at this picture http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...or%20GPF/8.jpg, where you are pointing out the two cables to pull, is the header in question the longer one in the upper left. There are two, a shorter and longer one at the upper left close to the face plate. Does this sound right?
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