Thread: cv shaft replacement..method two

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  1. #1 cv shaft replacement..method two 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
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    this is a different way of removing and replacing the cv shafts on our cars...ive found it considerably easier then other methods and will not risk the integrity of your alignment....

    what u will need...
    axle nut (can be loaner tooled at autozone)
    breaker bar
    two 14mm or 9/16" wrenches
    18 mm wrench (preferably swivel head rachet wrench)
    metal hammer
    soft mallet
    ball joint fork
    cotter pin for ball joint
    pry bar
    metal rod or pipe (i use 1/2" 18" long gas pipe)
    drain pan

    1 remove the tire
    2 loosen the axle nut and without removing the axle socket hit the socket with a soft mallet to loosen the axles grip on the hub...u may have to loosen the nut a few threads and hit it then loosen more and hit it again as some cv joints just dont want to come loose..
    3 once the cv joint it loose in the hud unscrew the axle nut the rest of the way. the axle should now be loose in the hub
    4 now remove the bolt and bushings holding the sway bar to the A-arm this takes a combination of 14mm or 9/16" wrenches. penetrating oil on this will save time and bloody knuckes
    5 remove the ball joint cotter pin and discard DO NOT REUSE OLD PINS!
    6 now push the cv joint in a little as this will make enouph room to fit the box end of your 18mm wrench onto the castle nut of the ball joint (flex headed ratchet wrenches work great here)
    7 once u got the ball joint castle nut removed smack the A-arm at both sides of the ball joint with a metal hammer right to the right and left of the bolts or rivets holding it in place...this vibration usually loosens the grip of the ball joint to the spindle. some people strike the spindle itself but they r aluminum and it can damage the spindle. i personally have replaced a spind that way because i lobed out the ball joint hole so aviod this method if u can
    8 now smack the A-arm down...if it doesnt move u can hit the A-arm at the joint a few more times or u may have to use a ball joint fork and break it loose...getting impatient here though will only lead to a torn ball joint cover and another trip to the parts store
    9 now push down on the loosened A-arm and swing the entire spindle assemble off the ball joint towards the rear of the car
    10 grab your brake assembly and twist the hub assembly out while pulling out the cv joint. dont pull too far though as your brake line will limit your travel of the spindle assemble and forcing it could damage your brake lines
    11 now remove the cv joint from the tranny..these r suppose to be sealed systems but have a pan under the tranny at the cv joint as most will leak tranny fluid out when u pop them out..also the removal of the cv joint from the tranny is usually a pain so dont get frustrated
    12 ive found that on the passenger side u can crawl under the car and with a hammer and with a piece of pipe smack the joint out..should take one good hit
    13 drivers side sucks. use a pry bar (or two) and put pressure on the joint. i wedge them in and hold them in place with my feet while im sitting and strike at the joint with a hammer...the pressure and vibration usually knock them loose...ur not suppose to, and others would disagree with me, but if u have a problem use a ball joint fork...carefully place it between the axle and tranny case so your not digging into the case and smack it with a small metal hammer a few times...just be carefull your not into the case..THIS COULD DAMAGE YOUR CASE so be warned although ive never had a problem and ive done about 20 or 30 this way
    14 now on rare occasions when doing the drivers side ive seen the rod from the cv joint to the differential come out of the tranny with the drivers side joint...dont panic as u havent messed up your car..grab the shaft and hold the cv joint straight up and down with it..now strike the joint with a metal hammer to remove the cv joint from the shaft. a few hits and itll fall to the ground...now put the shaft in the new cv joint and carefully reinstall..it should snap in just the same as if the shaft never came out
    15 when reinstalling the joints check the tranny seals for dust dirt or damage and with a sharp and forcefull push snap the cv joint into the tranny..u should hear a click..if not or if your not sure pull on the joint...if it comes back out of the tranny with hand force then u didnt get the cv joint to snap in..try again but be patient as sometimes they r a pain and take multiple attemts..IF U REINSTALLING AND OLD JOINT and after a few hours of trying to get the ring to seat u can still pull the cv joint out with your hand check the ring as its damaged or warped or just gone
    16 reinstall everything in reverse order...dont forget your cotter pin for your ball joint though as doing so will result in death..its the easiest way ive found...ill try and even post pics later as i have one to do later this week
    Last edited by copperpacecar; 02-28-2010 at 10:08 AM.
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  2. #2 Re: cv shaft replacement..method two 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
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    also just got a question on boot replacement...dont do it. the boot kit is generally 50 dollars or more and that doesnt include the grease and all the headache as that grease gets everywhere and is a pain to clean. a lifetime guaranteed shaft will run u less than 70 dollars with a lifetime warranty. just buy a new shaft
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  3. #3 Re: cv shaft replacement..method two 
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    A few tips

    1. Don't pull on the axle when trying to remove it from the trans. Pull from the base. My axle separated from the base and made a huge mess.

    2. You can use the 90 degree side of a crowbar to remove it from the trans. Place the short end between the cv and the trans and give the long end some light to medium taps with a hammer

    3. When removing your axle nut, place a 3/8" extension in the vane of the brake rotor to keep it from rotating
    Last edited by FuglyGTP; 08-24-2010 at 03:34 PM.
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