Thread: Blend Door Actuator Replacement

Temperature Actuator Replacement LH



Removal Procedure

1.Remove the left instrument panel insulator (this is the carpeted cardboard piece above the brake pedal that connects to the knee bolster)

2.Remove the knee bolster (this is the pad below the steering column)

3.Remove the steering column filler (this is the metal piece behind the knee bolter, under the steering colum) (4 larger bolts, and I think 2 smaller ones)

4.Disconnect the electrical connector from the temperature actuator.

5.Remove the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.

6.Remove the mounting bolts from the temperature actuator.

7.Remove the temperature actuator.


Installation Procedure

1.Position the temperature actuator, then align the slots in the electric actuator driver to the flats on the temperature valve shaft.

2.Slide the electric actuator driver onto the shaft, while aligning the actuator locating hole to the forward alignment pin on the HVAC module case. The actuator driver should completely seat onto the temperature valve shaft and the mounting holes should be flush with the mounting bosses on the HVAC module case.

3.Install the mounting bolts to the temperature actuator.
Tighten the temperature actuator bolts to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).

4.Connect the electrical connector to the temperature valve electric actuator.

5.Install the knee bolster.

6.Install the left instrument panel insulator.

7.Install the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.





Temperature Actuator Replacement RH



Removal Procedure

1. Remove the right instrument panel insulator. (The carpeted cardboard piece below the glovebox)

2. Remove the instrument panel compartment. (glovebox)

3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the temperature actuator.

4. Remove the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.

5. Remove the bolts retaining the temperature actuator.

6. Remove the temperature actuator.


Installation Procedure

1. Position the temperature actuator, then align the slots in the electric actuator driver to the flats on the temperature valve shaft.

2. Slide the temperature actuator driver onto the shaft, while aligning the actuator locating holes to the forward alignment pin on the HVAC module case. The actuator driver should completely seat onto the temperature valve shaft and the mounting holes should be flush with the mounting bosses on the HVAC module case.

3. Install the bolts to the temperature actuator. Tighten
Tighten the temperature actuator bolts to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).

4. Connect the electrical connector to the temperature actuator.

5. Install the instrument panel compartment.

6. Install the right instrument panel insulator.

7. Install the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.

Excellent writeup. I just have a question though before I go through this trouble.

My wife's car, 2005 GP v6 (non-s/c), has a heater blowing cold air. We've done two complete radiator flushes. I added the green mixture instead of DexCool the second time around. I've replaced the thermostat and have checked all of the hoses for leaks. The hoses going to and from the heater core are very hot. When flushing the radiator, both times, I flushed out the heater core as well. Once I do a radiator flush, the heater works perfectly. About a month later, the issue comes back.

Do you think this fix my problem?

Nice write up!!! Just what I was looking for. Seems lots of other people are looking for this too this post will bump it up.

^^Yup.

Just had that issue.

Put in a new blend door on the driver's side...issue, fixed.

i have same issues first some idiot toke out the fuse for the hvac put 1 in started working than a few weeks later started messing up and than i started hearing this werid ticking noise when the a/c was off than found a alil hole in a vac line replaced that it blew faster but still got that same problem

that part works on vacuum, check for a leak under the hood, the small tube that runs up the pass side fender to the fire wall sometimes snaps.

the actuators only work the blend door for hot or cold air.

If you have the two manual temp control sliders you have two actuators. My '03 GT is suffering the exact same symptoms as yours, funny how that popped up with the current heat wave.
I haven't dug into it yet, but it doesn't look too hard.

Most likely that's the problem, judging by how many people have had this same complaint, but you won't know 100% until you change it. I've found Rock Auto to be low cost and fast parts delivery for my GT.
Good luck!

UPDATE: Access to the left actuator is somewhat a PITA, OK if you were a car stereo installer in your youth.
Turns out my actuator is OK, it moves the blend door the full range that the door can move. The door itself feels OK the full range of motion, and sounds like it goes all the way to closing off either heat or cool ports.

I still have a large temp difference from driver to passenger side and poor cooling. With the A/C set to Max, temp sliders set to cold, fan speed set to 3, engine at idle speed, outdoor temp of 88º, I have 92º on the driver center outlet and 74º on passenger center outlet.
I'll have to check refrigerant pressure for the overall cooling issue, but why the big difference between sides when the blend door operation seems OK? Is there a good online parts breakdown of the heater assembly? Has anyone dug into their heater that far that could share some insight? Are the blend doors prone to breaking off part of the flap?

UPDATE 2: Refrigerant was low, recharged, now the with the same parameters as above I have 38º from drivers center outlet and 40º from the passenger center outlet. Why the drivers side is now cooler than the passenger side is a mystery. I'm just happy it's cold air that's coming out for cheap! Two 12 oz cans did it.

So what seemed to be a blend door problem, wasn't.