Thread: CV Shaft Replacement [*]

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23
  1. #1 CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member webracin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    748
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    This write-up is for replacing the Constant Velocity (CV) Shaft on the Pontiac Grand Prix. The write-up can be found here.

    webracin

    2001 Grand Prix GTP
    ZZP HUB 3.2 3.4, ZZP 8 Rib conversion, JC 3" DP Gen 2 cat & U-bend Delete, Accel Super Stock 8mm wires, DHP 1.5, 180* Thermo, Throttle Spacer, SS Intercooler, ZZP Fuel Rails, SLP CAI w/K&N Cone, Dynomax cat back, ZZP Tranny.

    2000 Grand Prix GTP Daytona K&N, Flowmasters
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #2 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    somewhere cold
    Posts
    351
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    hell no...doing it this way means u have to do an alignment on the car every time you replace a cv shaft....again hell no...if u remove the bolt for the sway bar and remove the ball joint u can swing the whole assembly out of the way without loosening the strut..its quicker and no new alignment needed and it works great as ive done at least 6 this way.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #3 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member Deimos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    iowa
    Posts
    649
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    You only have to worry about it if the strut is slotted
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #4 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    somewhere cold
    Posts
    351
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    arent they all? ive never seen one of our cars that u can just bolt the strut back on and still have perfect alignment
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #5 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member Deimos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    iowa
    Posts
    649
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    No they are not all slotted and if your that worried about it use a camber gauge
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #6 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    somewhere cold
    Posts
    351
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    wow...why get mad? and why use a camber gauge...that just makes my way even easier. look im just trying to help...had an easier/faster way to do it and thought id share...sorry ill restrain myself next time
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #7 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member Deimos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    iowa
    Posts
    649
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Who said I'm mad? I don't get upset how you do it is how it works for you. I'm lazy and happen to have an aligner at my shop. You may get .1 to.2 camber movement but highly doubtful that is why they have cam bolts for our cars.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #8 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Delaware, OH
    Posts
    635
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by copperpacecar View Post
    wow...why get mad? and why use a camber gauge...that just makes my way even easier. look im just trying to help...had an easier/faster way to do it and thought id share...sorry ill restrain myself next time
    This is the same way I've done them on most front wheel drive cars. Generally easier and doesn't require an alignment afterwards. Just have to be careful not to tear up the balljoint dust covers.
    No More GTP for me.

    2014 Chevy Cruze ECO Manual. 40+MPG
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #9 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GT Level Member hourang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    commerce, mi
    Posts
    308
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    thanks for this. i will be doing mine soon. FYI, just went to oreilys last night and it was $69 and NO core charge (pass. side). lifetime warrantee too.
    -Jeff
    98 GTP Black 4dr - fully loaded - short ram intake, tinted tails, hole in resonator.
    sold 98 camaro ss - 6spd fully loaded - cam, intake, exhaust, ford 9in rear 4.11s, 6point chromoly cage, tnt 150shot nitrous, nittos, etc.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  10. #10 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    somewhere cold
    Posts
    351
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by benner View Post
    This is the same way I've done them on most front wheel drive cars. Generally easier and doesn't require an alignment afterwards. Just have to be careful not to tear up the balljoint dust covers.
    just also note..dont hit the spindle with a hammer to break them loose...i use to till i found they r aluminum and i lobed out the ball joint hole once...striking the actualy sides of the a arm at the ball joint releases most without having to put a fork in and tear the ball joint dust cover
    Reply With Quote  
     

  11. #11 help! lol 
    SE Level Member CheeWee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bay Area,CA
    Posts
    48
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Cant get the bolts to slide off the strut / steering knuckle. Help go it lifted as we speak.
    98 Camaro Z28
    02 Blue GTP
    K&N FIPKIT, 3.4 Pulley, ZZP PCM, MSD 8.5mm, UbentD, and other small Upgrades
    Reply With Quote  
     

  12. #12 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GT Level Member hourang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    commerce, mi
    Posts
    308
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    just did my axle. was the easiest thing i ever did. walked up to the counter at belle tire that my buddy works at and handed him $50. i really broke a sweat on that one. now i know what its like to pay for someone to do the work for you.
    -Jeff
    98 GTP Black 4dr - fully loaded - short ram intake, tinted tails, hole in resonator.
    sold 98 camaro ss - 6spd fully loaded - cam, intake, exhaust, ford 9in rear 4.11s, 6point chromoly cage, tnt 150shot nitrous, nittos, etc.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  13. #13 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Great write up! I am actually in the middle of replacing mine now, along with the bearings, and had a question. You said there should be no fluid coming out, though I have read others saying there should be some small amount that would come out, and the instructions with the CV said drain the tranny ( I didn't). When I took the right CV out the fluid immediately starting coming out, just a small stream, I would say half a quart total. I looked inside and didnt see any damaged seals or what not, but I wanted to get a little input before I run into an issue and more money spending

    Thanks for any help!

    EDIT: Well, when I went back out the trans was done leaking out fluid, so I put the new shaft and bearing assembly in. I decided to check it on the stands and started the car once I had everything back together and torqued down. The new side wasnt turning at all in gear, old side was fine, and I was hearing a clunking noise. I turned the car off and went to check it out. First I checked to make sure the brakes were not locked up, they were fine, then I tried to turn it by hand, which it would do. I thought that maybe it wasn't pushed in all the way at the trans... So i disassembled the whole right side again to redo all my steps (couldn't get the new CV back out so I made sure I pushed it in as far as it would go, put everything back together, restarted the engine and it worked that time. Did the left (which was a pain to get off the trans) then put the tires back on and let her heat up to check the fluid level, it lost a half a quart like I thought before. Test drove her up the street and back and everything seems to be good! Again, I appreciate the write up, this really helped me out a lot as I hadn't tried doing something like this before.
    Last edited by NoOne0785; 04-28-2010 at 12:23 AM. Reason: Impatient, couldn't wait for answer :)
    Reply With Quote  
     

  14. #14 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SexyStudmuffin copperpacecar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    somewhere cold
    Posts
    351
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by NoOne0785 View Post
    Great write up! I am actually in the middle of replacing mine now, along with the bearings, and had a question. You said there should be no fluid coming out, though I have read others saying there should be some small amount that would come out, and the instructions with the CV said drain the tranny ( I didn't). When I took the right CV out the fluid immediately starting coming out, just a small stream, I would say half a quart total. I looked inside and didnt see any damaged seals or what not, but I wanted to get a little input before I run into an issue and more money spending

    Thanks for any help!

    EDIT: Well, when I went back out the trans was done leaking out fluid, so I put the new shaft and bearing assembly in. I decided to check it on the stands and started the car once I had everything back together and torqued down. The new side wasnt turning at all in gear, old side was fine, and I was hearing a clunking noise. I turned the car off and went to check it out. First I checked to make sure the brakes were not locked up, they were fine, then I tried to turn it by hand, which it would do. I thought that maybe it wasn't pushed in all the way at the trans... So i disassembled the whole right side again to redo all my steps (couldn't get the new CV back out so I made sure I pushed it in as far as it would go, put everything back together, restarted the engine and it worked that time. Did the left (which was a pain to get off the trans) then put the tires back on and let her heat up to check the fluid level, it lost a half a quart like I thought before. Test drove her up the street and back and everything seems to be good! Again, I appreciate the write up, this really helped me out a lot as I hadn't tried doing something like this before.
    ive never done one where at least some fluid doesnt come out
    Reply With Quote  
     

  15. #15 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    GTX Level Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Delaware, OH
    Posts
    635
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    yep some fluid is normal. All depends on the angle the cars sitting at and how much fluid is in it.

    As for the not spinning, It was most likely that the other axle simply had less resistance at the time. Our cars are open diff so which ever side has less resistance is the side that'll spin unless both are pretty free then both will spin.
    No More GTP for me.

    2014 Chevy Cruze ECO Manual. 40+MPG
    Reply With Quote  
     

  16. #16 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    Donating Users y2ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    7
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Great write up, here are a few things i noticed:

    I couldn’t pry the strut up in the way that was shown. instead I used a large pry bar to lift the strut from below it, lifting the bar up.

    I had a hard time getting the CV out of the transmission. I was able to do this easily by trying 2 ropes to the CV, right before the transmission. Then had a friend help me pull it. It came out easily.

    BTW my car runs great now. Thanks!
    Reply With Quote  
     

  17. #17 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    I live here. MoarkatsINmuhtrailer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    5,150
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by hourang View Post
    thanks for this. i will be doing mine soon. FYI, just went to oreilys last night and it was $69 and NO core charge (pass. side). lifetime warrantee too.
    i work at advance auto and we have it for the same price
    Reply With Quote  
     

  18. #18 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    I live here. MoarkatsINmuhtrailer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    5,150
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    also ours is new, im not sure if oreilys is a remanned or not
    Reply With Quote  
     

  19. #19 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    SE Level Member alacran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    135
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    is it just me or is the link broken?

    EDIT: oh, and i will be replacing the hub on the same side. Does that help?
    Last edited by alacran; 12-18-2011 at 01:40 AM.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  20. #20 Re: CV Shaft Replacement [*] 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,928
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    All the site-hosted tutorials are borked. I imagine they will be fixed in a few days.
    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
    Reply With Quote  
     

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. CV Shaft Rebuild/Replace [*]
    By Reptile in forum How To Write-Ups/Tech Tips
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-06-2009, 02:04 PM
Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •