Since there have been no instructions up to this point, I thought that I would document my installation for everyone here and then also provide a PDF version of the following to be placed on the TDCRacing web site for download. Oh, and yes, I know that my car was (still is actually) very dirty.
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How to install a TDCRacing Fenderwell Intake (FWI)
Welcome To TDC Racing
Last updated August 16, 2009 – NickBuol
Before venturing into the installation of any sort of intake or automotive modification, be sure that you are fully aware of what you are doing, as well as understanding the workings of the parts being modified. Take your time and do it right the first time so that you can get out and reap the rewards of your efforts.
For the TDC Racing FWI, you will need several tools that are commonly found in any decent tool set. If you need these tools for this install, it is advised to get them rather than borrow them as you may find that you need them later anyway.
Tools Required:
Ratchet (3/8” or 1/2” – just be sure to get correct matching sockets)
Sockets: 1/2” (13mm will also work), 8mm, and 10mm
Flathead screwdriver
Power screwdriver with Phillips bit (for putting self-tapping screws in)
For this installation, we are installing the TDC Racing FWI on a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Installation on your vehicle may vary, but this will give you a general idea of the installation process. Here is a picture of the intake painted in hi-temp black with the K&N filter. Notice the IAT hole and grommet marked in yellow below.
[Picture in next post due to site limitations]
So here is our 2000 GTP before any changes. We will basically be removing the equipment marked below.
1) Use the 1/2" socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the cross-brace in place. Set parts aside.
2) Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the headlight in place, disconnect the wireing harness plug, and carefully remove the headlight by sliding it outward, and in the case of the 2000 GTP, to the right as well. Set parts aside.
Below is a picture from the front showing the stock intake opening on the left, the headlight plug on the bottom, and a support bracket on the right that we will need to get out of the way.
3) Using a 10mm socket, remove the bottom bolt (shown below) from the fender brace. Once removed, slightly bend the bracket outward and to make room for the intake pipe. Put the bolt back in its socket or put it in a safe place in case you ever decide to go back to stock later on.
4) Use a flat head screwdriver and loosen the clamp around the stock intake hose and disconnect it from the air filter box.
5) Next, use the 8mm socket to release the two screws on top on the stock air filter box. Remove the inner half of the filter box as shown below. You can now also see the PCM in the bottom of the filter box. We will need to move that carefully out of the way.
6) Remove the outer half of the filter box.
Below is a closer picture of the PCM with the air filter box completely removed.
7) Go ahead and VERY carefully remove the IAT sensor from the intake hose and the remove the hose.
Below is a picture of the IAT and hose removed. This is where the intake will connect up using the silicone connector and two clamps.
8) Carefully take the intake tube and place it through the opening leading to the front fender.
Below is a picture showing the intake tube inside the fender and the fender bracket pushed out of the way.
9) Place the cone filter securely on the end of the intake tube and tighten down the included clamp using an 8mm socket. Here is a picture of the intake installed inside the fender.
10) Using the provided clamps and silicone coupler, connect the other end of the intake to the engine using an 8mm socket to tighten the clamps. VERY CAREFULLY put the IAT sensor into the grommet of the intake.
11) Using the power screwdriver and the included self-tapping screws, secure the triangular heat panel to the inside of the vehicle. This provides a barrier between your hot engine compartment and the intake end. It also helps to prevent the intake from moving.
12) Using whatever method you like, secure the PCM to the body of the car. For this install zip ties (red ones) were used to hold it in place.
13) Reinstall the cross brace with the three 1/2" bolts.
14) Rubber “feet” were placed under the PCM after it was strapped down to prevent rocking and movement, as well as to provide a cushion for the PCM. Below is a picture of the “feet” that were used for this install.
Below is the finished install and the car is ready for a test run (and a good wash). The vehicle now has a much more noticeable supercharger “whine” meaning that your supercharger is finally able to breathe. You may also notice what has been called the sound of a “breathing dragon” when the vehicle is first started up and the engine is cold. This is caused by the normal operation of the IAC and goes away after a minimal amount of driving. Enjoy the intake and boost in performance. If you have any questions, just visit the Top Dead Center Racing website at Welcome To TDC Racing or call (478) 225-5977.
[Picture in next post due to site limitations]
Originally Posted by popeyenate
Just drilled a hole in the adapter between the TB and intake.
