Thread: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method

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  1. #21 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    ^^^ like he said. Most yards here the cars have the wheels taken off and they sit the car directly on the ground. So having them move the car onto an area with a stand to work on it is required. I do like the ones where they weld steel wheels to the car drip edge and then you can get over/under etc w/o worry.
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  2. #22 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
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    okay well i got a hoist so will i have to drop the sub frame
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  3. #23 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Forgot to post a trick I picked up recently at the junkyard, use at your own risk, but works quite well and makes pulling much easier.

    Basically, do not remove the torque converter bolts or the power steering rack bolts, remove all else as normal minus removing the compressor and power steering pump, cut power steering lines, unbolt ac lines, remove all bellhousing bolts and starter, all mounts, don't worry about the cv shaft, drop the subframe, drop the strut bolts, lift engine and trans and drop it slightly. This is enough force to break the cv and power steering apart. Now pry the transmission off with torque converter still on the flexplate. Now simply pull everything out careful to watch for snags or wires you forgot.

    Again, use at your own risk, not the prettiest method, or the least destructive, but certainly the quickest.

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  5. #24 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Do you think that puts undo stress on the flex and end of crank? I suppose not pulling the starter and flex bolts is quicker.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  6. #25 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Do you think that puts undo stress on the flex and end of crank? I suppose not pulling the starter and flex bolts is quicker.
    That was my initial thought, but the person I snagged this trick off pulls 4 engines a day on average and says he's never had an issue, so I figured I'd try it.

    I suppose if you want to be kind about it, you could remove steering shaft and drop subframe and split them on the ground then lift.

    In my particular case, I didn't care about the transmission or the flexplate as I've got one I'm going to use, but it looks fine to me!
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  7. #26 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I'm thinking more about the crank seal/rear engine seal. You know the seal that's a given to do if you pull an engine.

    I have done this method.. but it felt like I should question the pressure on it.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  8. #27 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    I'm thinking more about the crank seal/rear engine seal. You know the seal that's a given to do if you pull an engine.

    I have done this method.. but it felt like I should question the pressure on it.
    Definitely a good point as always Bill! Though, personally, I always change those seals anyhow because I do NOT want to mess with them down the road!

    As stated earlier to anyone using the "questionable" methods I list below the main one, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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  9. #28 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    i agree, if the engine is out.. that seal is getting redone.
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