Thread: 04+ what size radiator core do you have? And what's this about bevel springs and nuts

Originally Posted by bandook

And you ARE right about the table to turn fans off because of AC. But it is set at 75 mph and only turns off if ac pressure is high...or low. I don't know exactly what the conditions mean because I don't know a lot about the ac system...so many variables with it.

I would venture a guess that ect tables override this ac condition. Could be wrong but I would imagine keeping the ect's in check takes precedence over the ac fan control table.

I would agree with that completely. If you had low coolant or some other need like towing where your loading the system down at highway speed you would always have that over ride to keep temps in check.

regarding the description of the fans shutting off if high or low pressure is detected would probably be due to at 75 your RPMs are high enough that if the system is overfilled it could trip the high pressure switch, and if the low pressure switch is tripped then it's probably shutting down the AC clutch as well as it normally would. Usually the fans won't run if the compressor doesn't run. That would be my guess. I still think that 05' tables are a lot different as far as when it shuts the fans off. Scotty?

Oh, OK...because your other cars behave differently the l67 should follow suit?

All you have to do is do a quick search on these forums about "what should my temps be" and find dozens of threads with people complaining about the temps. And most are ended by someone saying, "its a Heaton, live with it" lol. Most here have been bothered by it once they started paying attention to it, or got a proper reading with a scanner. Bothered me too that's why I've flushed my engine twice and finally ended up installing a 1" rad. I would do it again because it only cost me 20 bucks shipped, and it helps once the fans come on by dropping the temp right now. So by all means, install the rad and impala fans if you like, but be prepared to be disappointed by the results. Or buy a tune and spend 6 minutes putting in the pcm and get exactly the results you are looking for I think you should just get a tuner, with your computer skills you will be in hog heaven. When I'm too tired or unmotivated to turn a wrench, I can still work on my car from the sofa. Love it.

Originally Posted by J57ltr

I would agree with that completely. If you had low coolant or some other need like towing where your loading the system down at highway speed you would always have that over ride to keep temps in check.

regarding the description of the fans shutting off if high or low pressure is detected would probably be due to at 75 your RPMs are high enough that if the system is overfilled it could trip the high pressure switch, and if the low pressure switch is tripped then it's probably shutting down the AC clutch as well as it normally would. Usually the fans won't run if the compressor doesn't run. That would be my guess. I still think that 05' tables are a lot different as far as when it shuts the fans off. Scotty?

Yeah, 05 is lower. The ac shutoff fan 1 is 55/53 and fan 2 is 49/47. My tune is 75/70 and 65/60. And your ect fan on temp is like 4° higher. Other than that its pretty much the same.

the moral of the story here is, all GM cars ran off a pcm or what ever they call it car to car love to run at 210 or a bit hotter.

your year gp's fan setting are much higher then ours stock even. id say because of the higher turn on settings, your heat soaked before the fans even come on, then its a temp battle that cant be won because your fans dont com on till 218 iirc.


keep in mind your t stat is no longer doing a thing but locked wide open. so constant flow of coolant, the coolant just dont get a chance to be cooled as much if the t stat is open the whole time.

i did creep up to 212 the other day in traffic and the ac on. (was like 95 outside) so even with tuned fans, temps will rise where the dumb engine wants them to be. aka 210 ish.

I just believe a cooling system should allow the thermostat perform properly, and since I have to deal with Weights and Measures standards I understand that the thermostat isn't going to open at exactly 195* it's probably +/- 10* knowing those damn Chinese. But that doesn't even matter since even if it was that far off it still can't keep it below the thermostat temp.

i plan on getting a tuner but I'm going to have to wait a while. Right now I'm trying to get a tune lined up but it may be a month before I can do so. I still need to really look into what I should get I haven't gotten into that really yet. I've only had the car since like May, and I'm trying to stuff years and years of knowledge into my head in a short amount of time. Things like exhaust options this IC business, with the heatercore. Stereo options since it seems 04+ have so much more BS to deal with. Return less fuel system, brake and sway bar options. I'm just kinda trying to knock out what I see as problems. I'll see if Booba Fet can get me some fan schematics to manually turn the fans on for now.

Jeff

Edit: I did see all the posts about running hot, but didn't really hear from the 04+ crowd so that's why I was asking.

all you need to turn the fans on manually is to unplug the temp sensor, they run full time.

or, you wire the fans up like fog lights, add a relay for each fan and put the switch in the car somewhere. i did my trucks fans this way. i added them, it came with a clutch fan. it went bad for the third time, so it went bye bye's.

i ran the power from ing on in the fuse box, then they turned off when the car was turned off. never had to worry did i flip the switch to off or not.

that truck ran at 211 all day long. unless i had the plow on and went to fast or got on the gas to much it would get hot fast.

with 2 16 inch fans running full time it ran at 210. same BS if the plow was on tho. the blade just stole the air from the grill on the highway.

and if i turned the fans off, as long as i was moving the temps stayed around 210 mark. sit in traffic and bam watch the needle rise lol

my a/c was never colder too after the dual electric fan swap. i could take a sheet of paper and drop it in front of the grill and it would suck to the grill and stay there. the clutch fan never drew so much air. and i took the fan shroud off too.

no fan shroud makes greasing the front end so much easier too lol

Yeah, after I get some schematics I'll wire it up.

also what is the deal with the 3 relay system for 2 fan speeds for 2 different fans is it setup as both fans on low speed with a resistor in line then high speed is one relay per fan bypassing the resistor or what?

Jeff

i actually used a Cavalier rad fan assembly on my Diablo and used the Hayden fan switch after forgetting to turn the fan on once and blowing an intake gasket. It had an auxiliary input to activate the fan if you wanted to, it was for the AC clutch. That car errr truck ran 180 all day long cruising about 70. I also added an LED to tell when the fan was turning, but ended up taking and moving it to the relay signal because about 40 the light would start to blink and by 70 it was a solid light then it would spin down when I came to a stop.

wish i understood how stuff really works when it comes to electrical crap. maybe its for the a/c? as the fans should turn on full speed when the a/c is on.

They run low speed when the AC is on or the low temp fan setting is hit. That I know. Basically I will just tie into the PCM to turn the fans on and off without having to use extra relays depending on how it's configured. PCM outputs are almost always Negative output. I should only have to use a single switch up for high, down at low and middle of off. I should be able to diode isolate the wires so I shouldn't need relays but I'll have to look at the schematic.

Jeff

nice post, wrong thread for sure lol unless your just a spammer of course. then you will be banned.

Ban that man!!!!