Heat stake in blower motor resistor

[Coldwaves]

The blower motor resistor on my 2005 Grand Prix base model went bad. The fan stays at one speed and does not turn off after shutting off engine. The resistor is the original one as it is fixed there by the plastic rivet/heat stake. I looked online and it seems the service manual suggests that I should use a small chisel to remove those plastic heat stakes. I supposed I just use a chisel to break the head of the rivet off and the resistor would come off. I did that and the resistor come off. For new resistor, the manual says I have to use screws to attach the new one. I went to AutoZone and bought a new one. It works but it has a different pattern of holes. It seems the broken rivet now is in the way that the new resistor does not fit flush with the mount. Am I doing the rivet removing wrong? Or I just have to get exactly the same hole pattern in the new resistor to make it work? All the parts in local auto store has the same pattern. Even the AC Delco ones I saw on eBay have the same pattern that would not fit directly. Is there any way to deal with the remaining of the rivets so the new one will fit?

The old one looks like this. The remaining of the rivet can come through the larger hole.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...0917_988698_0/

The new ones all look like this. The rivet cannot go through so the resistor does not fit flush with the mount.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...motor+resistor

[spazzz]

I just did mine with the exact BWD replacement. It has a few holes on each side that will line up with the new screw hole location next to the old rivets.

Chances are there is a chunk of the old rivet head in the way from popping thru the hole, so it sits flush. The holes for the screws are already drilled in the base.

It will work, it's just hard to see.

[Coldwaves]

I just did mine with the exact BWD replacement. It has a few holes on each side that will line up with the new screw hole location next to the old rivets.

Chances are there is a chunk of the old rivet head in the way from popping thru the hole, so it sits flush. The holes for the screws are already drilled in the base.

It will work, it's just hard to see.

Thanks! Good to know. I guess my question is how to deal with the remaining chunck of plastic rivets. It seems the holes in the new resistor is not as large as the holes in the old one for the rivets and the rivets does not pop through. Did you mean that even if it is not popping through, the resistor is still sitting flush, or did you mean it will pop through and I just have to try to line it up? I can see the holes for the screws lining up.

[spazzz]

I could see the front peg sitting in the hole. the old one doesn't pop thru, but sits in the hole....helps to line it up

[Coldwaves]

I could see the front peg sitting in the hole. the old one doesn't pop thru, but sits in the hole....helps to line it up

Yeah, it is hard to see clearly. I kind of feel that the remaining plastic does not sit in the hole in the new resistor such that the sponge on the resistor does not form a tight seal with the mount. Am I correct that the sponge on the resistor is supposed to be pushed against the mount and form a seal ? Also, does the BWD one come with screw? The one from autozone does not come with any new screws.

[Coldwaves]

The blower motor resistor on my 2005 Grand Prix base model went bad. The fan stays at one speed and does not turn off after shutting off engine. The resistor is the original one as it is fixed there by the plastic rivet/heat stake. I looked online and it seems the service manual suggests that I should use a small chisel to remove those plastic heat stakes. I supposed I just use a chisel to break the head of the rivet off and the resistor would come off. I did that and the resistor come off. For new resistor, the manual says I have to use screws to attach the new one. I went to AutoZone and bought a new one. It works but it has a different pattern of holes. It seems the broken rivet now is in the way that the new resistor does not fit flush with the mount. Am I doing the rivet removing wrong? Or I just have to get exactly the same hole pattern in the new resistor to make it work? All the parts in local auto store has the same pattern. Even the AC Delco ones I saw on eBay have the same pattern that would not fit directly. Is there any way to deal with the remaining of the rivets so the new one will fit?

The old one looks like this. The remaining of the rivet can come through the larger hole.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...0917_988698_0/

The new ones all look like this. The rivet cannot go through so the resistor does not fit flush with the mount.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...motor+resistor

Just want to post an update. I have the parts from advanced auto parts, the pattern of the holes is different from the original one. But the remaining of the plastic rivets sit in the hole. Therefore, the resister will sit flush And form a good seal. You just have to line it carefully.

Also, The resister I bought does not come with new screws. #6 self tapping screws are what do you want to attach the new resister.

[spazzz]

Just want to post an update. I have the parts from advanced auto parts, the pattern of the holes is different from the original one. But the remaining of the plastic rivets sit in the hole. Therefore, the resister will sit flush And form a good seal. You just have to line it carefully.

Also, The resister I bought does not come with new screws. #6 self tapping screws are what do you want to attach the new resister.

Good deal.
Yeah the BWD comes with the screws..and they are #6 x 1" sheetmetal type hex head

[Coldwaves]

Good deal.
Yeah the BWD comes with the screws..and they are #6 x 1" sheetmetal type hex head

The one I bought does not come with screws. It is also BWD but anyway, it is pretty easy to get those screws.

Thanks a lot for your suggestions and help!