OK... FOR THE SECOND STRAIGHT DAY I WILL CLEAN UP A THREAD THAT WAS ABOUT PORTED HEADS AND TURNED INTO A CHRIS HINSON PORTED HEADS THREAD.... ****S SAKE. Go start a thread in the rant section about it. Keep this thread on subject PLEASE.
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OK... FOR THE SECOND STRAIGHT DAY I WILL CLEAN UP A THREAD THAT WAS ABOUT PORTED HEADS AND TURNED INTO A CHRIS HINSON PORTED HEADS THREAD.... ****S SAKE. Go start a thread in the rant section about it. Keep this thread on subject PLEASE.
Wait. So you cleaned up the link I put to my pictures, and me clarifying my pricing, But leave up the misunderstood price quote that was in question of $1700 after you messaged me on facebook the link to this thread telling me the guys are discussing my prices?
What's really going on here?
Aaron Decker said I do amazing work. Why'd that get cleaned up?
Ill say it again, ^^ This man does some of the best port work around.
Hooked me up with 150lb springs and a hell of a port job for 900 bucks.
Didn't mean to remove any useful info on prices or pics, just wanted to clean up all the fussing. I didnt really read each post I just went back and selected them all.
you can keep some of the people happy some of the time, but not all the people happy all the time.
Cmon man check all the bullsh1t drama from on the 1st page. If your going to clean it up then do ALL of it not half and if people are still butthurt well then oh well its the internet and leave it at that..........Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceman6669
Wow this got out of control, let's keep it what it is, just pictures of your own port work or work performed for you by a professional. Let's keep prices out of this, unless it's what you personally spent on tools to do the job yourself, grinders, types of porting or buffing bits and just how long it took. So far I haven't had one bad experience with anyone from this site and don't plan to, so let's get back on track and keep this informative and clean
Quote:
Originally Posted by dezebe1
The heads I posted pics of I used Snap On De-Burring bits in a die grinder for the heavy port work, then bring them home and use 60, and 120 grit sand drums on a dremmel(for short intervals to keep from ruining the dremmel) to start polishing, then I go to Green and Red(not sure of the grit of these) scotch-brite wheels for the dremmel to finish the polish. I use a Bridgeport Cincinnati mill at work to mill the valve guides. Also while at work I sandblast them and run them through a parts washer, then magnaflux them to check for cracks.
SO IT DOESNT GET DELETED AGAIN
make sure you check your heads for core shift. i can identify excessive core shift on two of the heads in the previous pics.
IF YOUR GOING TO PORT HEADS......DONT START WITH A POS unless thats what yer trying to make.
on average id say i find one good head in every ten i look at.
i often pull valvecovers and brackets to look at the rocker stands/end caps and VC rails to see if i want to spend the time to yank it off and look at the chamber side.
ive spent the time to yank at least 5 heads that got left sitting there from core shift/casting defects not visible
a mold 7 head from a 98 car is a great head....a mold 7 from 00+...not so much evidently the tooling got ****ed up. you now have a head with 3/16ths core shift.
so just going by mold numbers isnt perfect.
if yer gonna spend the time and money on yer heads...start with some minty stuff.
also dont sandblast the HG surface unless its getting shaved....only use bead blasting or baking
Great info to pass along James, forgot to mention I had gone through a total of 8 heads total to find 2 good ones myself. 6 heads had bad cracks between intake and exhaust seats that went too deep to even have hardened seats take care of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
Can you people please post up pics of the bad ones or point out what a guy should look for!
I'm out of town till Sunday but when i get back in town I have 2 bad heads with cracks that I will snap pictures of between the valve seats so others can kn ow what they are looking forQuote:
Originally Posted by 98GrandPrickVet
if you still have em take a look at the upper sand mold centering at the rocker stands.
its not 100% but i see alot of cracks on end cylinders with the rocker stand bolt holes quite visibly off center. doesnt seem to hold true for the middle cylinder.
i sometimes wish id have taken note which were cylinders closest to the water pump and see if maybe thermal shock might be partially to blame.
my thought is the upper mold misalignment to the lower (at the chamber/port throats) might lead to contamination or a thin spot during casting...possibly even sand contamination at the uneven parting lines.
most of what i find is upper half damage/correcting though every now and then a chamber is a bit off center or has divots around the seats
the upper half can lead to some port roofs being a bear to square up.
this is where the factory freaks come from....
i have two heads i keep to show people... that im sure i could make the lowest hp stock l67 in history if i put em on the same block...
i typically just do my qwikport and call it day. most the the bad stuff is the guide bosses and casting to machined transition cleaning
gasket matching is nearly pointless as the throat cant be opened up enough...best to clean it up, even the core shift (hopefully its slight) and make sure its a nice gentle even funnel from the plenum to the head.
seriously though sharpie the head at the bore and scribe it through the plug holes (put crank at an angle with the pistons down in the holes)
youll see the chamber core shift and where you can unshroud the valves at the chamber wall, even notch the bores with the shortblock assembled with a little care.
you bump up your low/mid valve lift flow and youll get more out of damn near every build
a sharpened piece of welding rod/mig wire/coathanger can work just as well and produce visible marks if you dont have picks long enough to do it
Id appreciate it I know of a warehouse I could go snag up a bunch of NA heads as long as I know what to look for.
Just when I thought this place couldn't have any productive threads maybe we'll get somewhere LOL thanks everyone.
No problem, hope it helps others too and possibly become a sticky, to be able to show people what to look out for. Where to look for core shift like James said and where you'll most likely find cracks between valve seats. Keep the pictures comming.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GrandPrickVet
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...edecad3c24.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e035504e0b.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...9d223240c4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...57b8b9d692.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f19da014a4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...42e6430966.jpg
Here are the pic's I was talking about. If you can see all the cracks between the valve seats. When I put dye on it the crack extends down into the bowl area, hope this gives you a better idea. Now you'll need to pull the valves out in order to see it
Yea I have personally never seen any that bad before. I have done a few that you can NOT see with the naked eye but do show up with magnaflux. But they are no where near that bad.
This is just 2 heads I still need to take them back to pick n pull and get 2 more since I got the 1 year warranty, just been too damn cold to go back, maybe sometime in March I'll head back to exchange and see whats new on the lot!! I had to swap out 6 other ones also and just keep coming up with crap. Next time I'll bring my spring compressor and just remove all the valves to see what I gotQuote:
Originally Posted by Iceman6669