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if it was my wires, id take em off try to un crimp them, pull em apart and re do em right. they dont need to be perfectly round, just need to be able to get the solder in and then the wire pushed back in there.
put your shrink tube on before the end gets soldered back on, or it may not fit over the lug. keep it far from the heat too. they shrink easy then get stuck on the wire and its no longer usable.
Autozone sells these, its how i have my amp and HIDs hooked up. They cost about 7 bucks maybe. I just have the stock cable sammiched like normal but other crap gets put on the end post.
Also sunflowerpowee (heh) i though ALL positve wire runs needed a fuse in them so like alt to batt needs a fuse batt to amp needs a fuse but not like batt batt to connections.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...6f26ff0a78.jpg
Sent from BFE
you can also buy a longer bolt for the stock terminals to add that wire to the battery.
i used dino guys type of terminals in my truck with plows, all sorts of extra crap going to the batterys.
Just don't strip the threads out of the battery from over tightening like dinoguy did.
Sent from BFE
yeah, battery threads are made of lead, very soft, just make the bolt good and snug.
I always learn the hard way.
Sent from BFE
ive done it too. thats when a washer gets added or a few wraps of tin foil or some wire mesh get wrapped around the threads of the bolt.
Lol....who is this dino guy yall talking about? I'm clueless over here!
Russosaur aka dino guy. lol
<------ Alternatively named "RussDinoGuy"
Sent from BFE
OK got it..lol :th_thumbsup-wink::th_thumbsup-wink::burnrubber0:
alt to batt doesn't need a fuse, and neither does batt to batt, but my back battery to amp didn't have fusing so I fused it further up the line, as far as I know, gp's, sunfires etc don't come fused from alt to batt, it goes alt pos, to starter, to batt positive, no fusing, new vehicles do come fused, but its a pain in the ass if you pop that fuse in the middle of the bush or far away from a parts store.
u should be doing the big 3 to take advantage of the upgraded wire that means pos on alt to batt... eng block to chasis for ground I used the alt bolt and ran 5 inches to firewall and also from ground on batt to body I simply jus overlapped all stock wiring with 0 gauge you cant go wrong just make sure you do the grounds aswell
Sorry I should of updated everyone early, but he is what it looked like when I finished the big 3.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...d7bb83d1fe.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...c29d06937e.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...721b1afcbc.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...7eb00edc62.jpg
Did you scratch the paint off where you grounded it to the strut towers? It won't ground very well with the paint
Yea....I sanded it down to the metal.
ull be fine with that specaily for that 160 amp alt im runnin a mechman 260amp alt and 1 run of zero with second batt and I clamped the wire and was pullin 240 single run, will pull fine remember alt only generates amps when its under load so.. ur good to go, (cant argue thou more runs are better)I got an 18 inch soundqubed walled in my 04 and they said that cant be done!
anything can be walled lol, look at steve meads old s10, 2 18's lol
This is a mean set up here. You have some serious amps going on.....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Trett93
Well, I'm glad to here this. If I put a bad ass system in my ride I will upgrade, but at the moment that's not my main concern.Quote:
Originally Posted by UnIbOnGeR