Thread: Low voltage to knock sensors.(P0332)

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  1. #1 Low voltage to knock sensors.(P0332) 
    SE Level Member Metal Links's Avatar
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    I have been getting P0332(low voltage from Knock Sensor, 2nd bank) CEL for the past month or so. I have since replaced the KS, replaced the wire and I just cleaned the PCM connecting terminals. Nothing has fixed the issue. I checked the Voltage coming from the PCM to the KS and I got 3.35 Volts, i believe it should be closer to 5 volts, the KS is supposed to cut the voltage in half and return that to the PCM.

    I have no idea what could be wrong, could the PCM be bad?
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  2. #2 Re: Low voltage to knock sensors.(P0332) 
    SE Level Member TheYanz's Avatar
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    Just throwing this out there, how are all the ground-post connections & battery connections in general? I was gonna say probe & test the continuity of the 5v power source wire at both ends with a voltmeter but you said you replaced the wire. Have you figured this out yet? I see you posted a month ago.

    I JUST got a P0332, gonna jack it up & take a look at the wire harness tonight. I replaced all the hard brake lines under the car a month ago & I may have f*cked up the wiring for the rear one when I was pulling out the old crap, corroded brake lines after cutting them in strategic sections. Hopefully I won't need to replace the sensor.

    Hey, you said you replaced the sensor. What happens when you pull it out? Does oil or coolant flow out? You need a special tool to get it out, right? Do you recall the torque specs when reinstalling the new one? Anything else I should know about this sh1t? Lol
    99' Black GTP/ '03 Motor. 3.4 MPS, 1.9 Rockers, Ported SC & TB, SD Headers, FastKatt Tune, 2.5" Exhaust, Dual Tips, 104's .055/ 180*, STBBs, 6000K HIDs + 6000K HID Fogs, Interior LEDs + Red LED Switches, 1,250w Infinity Sub, Red Calipers, NiCop Brake Lines.
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  3. #3 Re: Low voltage to knock sensors.(P0332) 
    SE Level Member TheYanz's Avatar
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    So, here's what happened my particular adventure with the knock sensors...

    I'm driving in the highway yesterday evening & the check engine light illuminates. I check it immediately with my behind the steering wheel mounted Scan Gauge II & it says P0332. I Google it & it says knock sensor - bank 2 - low circuit input. Late last night, I jacked up the car & left the jack in place & used 2 heavy-duty jack stands in strategic spots for safety redundancy. I start looking around & spot both knock sensors pretty quickly (since I've never seen them on a GTP, or any car, for that matter). After a short while, I unclip the wiring harness from the 2nd knock sensor & I go to lightly tug on the wiring to get the clip to pull out. The wiring snaps right in half at one point close to where the other end of the wiring plugs into another clip very close to where the oil filter location is.

    I start examining the wiring & at one point, it was kinda soft & not good & stiff like how normal wiring should be. I cut out the bad section & soldered in a new 4 inch section of wire. I solder the other end to the remaining wiring in the area by the oil filter & use electrical tape & a tiny section of clear wrap to go over the newly soldered area. I wrapped it all up hardcore with good electrical tape & zip-tied the ends of the tape so it NEVER comes undone.

    I think when they did my engine swap 3 years ago, they possibly may have done something funny with the 3 or 4 wires that come off the bundle that the 2nd knock sensor's wiring originates from. There's some sort of coolant or AC piping located nearby. I think they may have arranged the wiring into a 2x2 pattern & used that pipe to split the wires & somewhat secure them into place. I ran them all back over & used zip-ties to secure them to other less potentially problematic areas. There was an unknown sensor in that area, I used the plastic connector housing to zip-tie part of the knock sensor's wiring to it.

    I can't believe how thin the wiring is from the knock sensors, it must be 18 gauge or something. Ridiculous. & the way GM did the wiring, it just sits there & it's not protected (for the 1st knock sensor). The 2nd one has that black plastic corrugated **** on it. If I had time, I'd buy some lengths of black rubberized vacuum lines & slit them & slide them over the wiring & zip-tie them every 2-3 inches to keep it secured & closed & to protect it from heat, leaking oil, grime, & other road pollutants like water & salt.

    I took the GTP for a long drive today. Seems like all the issues are gone. I didn't see the ignition timing drop below 18 most of the time & I only saw one 3* KR blip at one point but that was it. For the past few weeks, the car was acting crazy. The Scan Guage II, on occasion, would read out 22* of KR any time I would try to give it any gas. The only thing that helped was unplugging the negative battery cable every so often then reconnecting it. I think the intermittent signal due to the bad, failing wiring was causing the PCM to behave quite erratically.

    On my first little mini pull, it went from 0-60 like butter. It was AWESOME! Can't wait for some colder weather to test it out some more. F*cking knock sensor wiring... Lol
    99' Black GTP/ '03 Motor. 3.4 MPS, 1.9 Rockers, Ported SC & TB, SD Headers, FastKatt Tune, 2.5" Exhaust, Dual Tips, 104's .055/ 180*, STBBs, 6000K HIDs + 6000K HID Fogs, Interior LEDs + Red LED Switches, 1,250w Infinity Sub, Red Calipers, NiCop Brake Lines.
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