You have to remove it to inspect it. Rust forms between the washer and ring terminal, and in the threads of the bolt.
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You have to remove it to inspect it. Rust forms between the washer and ring terminal, and in the threads of the bolt.
they love to snap off, welcome to the rust belt
ps a new ground from battery strung over and connected to it really does help.
id suggest checking the HL grounds too. usually gives ya a hair brighter ****ty GP lighting
Spent a couple hours checking and cleaning all the grounds. Also removed the rubber boots for both battery connectors and cleaned them good with baking soda & wire brush dremel bit. The negative connector was one quarter covered in corrosion. Here are the grounds i found and cleaned..
- next to battery
- on tranny case (one thick wire, one smaller wire at same post)
- on engine by belt/idler
- headlight ground
Did I miss any? None of them were lose or severely corroded. Still cleaned them all anyways.
Nothing has changed, alarm/rs system still not working properly at all. Battery backup alarm now gets triggered everytime you turn on the headlights (new since removing ebcm). Probably going to have it all ripped out... only five years old tho sigh.
Kind of NEED keyless entry tho, this car has intermittently had the key stuck in ignition problem for five years now. Never been a concern since it has the remotes/alarm.
I am going to quote myself here. I bought an aftermarket remote start for my mom years back and after less than 2 years it went crazy and would randomly take over the car. I have talked to others with other brands that had similar issues. I would not be one bit surprised if your problems are all solved when you remove the unit.
^ I second that, just remove the dang thing. You listed the main grounds so that's taken care of, unless it's the grounds for those specific circuits I say remove the thing.
UPDATE:
Received my rebuilt ebcm and installed it yesterday. Lights don't go thru a flashing pattern or automatically stay lite upon start up. No more relay rapidly actuating from the ebcm unit either. 5-10min after driving both abs and tcs off lights do come on tho.........! Scanned it, C0036 - (L F Wheel speed circuit range/perf) & C0035 (L F Wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction). I guess Timken hubs only last so long too. Fixed one thing just so that thing could tell me what else is not working properly lol. Silly question... does "Left Front" mean driver side or passenger?
As for the alarm/rs, I've just quit using it. Unplugged most of the connectors from the 'security brain'. Plan to play around with the cables a little in hopes to restore lock/unlock.... that's all I want. Otherwise there's plenty of Audi/Mercs in my neighborhood to get stolen before my pos haha.
Left front is drivers.
left front should mean driver side front.
Double check that its the WSS and not possible broken wires from the hub to EBTCM. Could save you 80 bucks.
Sent from the Milky Way
Ouch
Sent from the Milky Way
Interesting update...
The alarm/rs system is working again. Finally went the other day to messing with the security brain connectors to see if i could at least get keyless entry. That worked right away, along with both sirens. Plugged the RS connector back in, hit the remote, VROOM started first crank. Been using it everyday fine for a week now.
Maybe the ebcm was so jacked up it was sending stray electrical signals all over to places it shouldn't causing the alarm system to go haywire. What's weird is the alarm didn't work right when the ebcm was removed for shipping. I know the RS requires a reading from the tach, but its not like the tach is tied to the ebcm..right?
And as for the abs sensor, I just reseated the connector and tugged on the wires. The lights haven't come back on for a few weeks. Probably temporary, guessing the pigtail will have to be replaced soon.
Now i'm annoyed i put scratches on my driver door after using the key for the last month lol.... dam car.