Thread: Rack and Pinion replacement time.......

i do mine with car ramps. wear crappy old cloths, a hat, some sun or safety glasses and start spraying the bottom first. i slide under and hit the back side of the tranny, the rack, then in the middle of the tranny and engine, up the side of the block too, then the oil pan and front of the engine block. from the pass side wheel well you can shoot cleaner on to the tranny, and hose it off from there.

then spray the top 1/2 of the engine and tranny down. get 2 cans, one is never enough.

if you see any thick areas of built up grease use a old paint brush to break it up.

Clean engine undercarriages are rusty ones, mine's rust-proofed with oil.

Iv done this twice. Its not so bad. FIrst time was about 8 hours because I was a noob. Second time I did it by myself in 3 hours. Definitely just buy an entire reman rack from the parts store. Remove the wheels and jack the car up. Pop the ball joints tie rod ends out. Remove the locking bolt from where the steering wheel shaft connects to the rack. Drop the rear of the subframe 10 inches or so (If nessary loosen the front subframe bolts a few turns) Remove both fluid lines from the rack (If you have headers do it from underneath the car) Unplug the electrical connector by the trans side cover if you have magnasteer. Remove the two large nut bolt combos holding the rack in. Wiggle the likely greasy dirty thing out through the drivers side. Reverse the process and attach your tie rod ends / new moog tie rod ends and refill the power steering pump. Make sure to not turn the steering wheel during the process or else it might end up uncentered.

Well, another neat development. I was working on the rusty, loose parts of HAASS (short for (HALFASSERY), and I need to turn the steering wheel. I started the car and turned it, and about 3 tablespoons of fluid came from somewhere....I'm assuming the rack......

I guess I have 2 leaks........