AEM Air/fuel mixture gauge hook up

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Originally Posted by machinegunsquid

That's not the right grommet then. From inside the car it's up even higher, and slightly closer to the driver's side. You just have to pull the carpet down a little bit, and reach your arm up under the rubber padding, there's a stiff cable going through there (think it's the hood release, but I can't be sure)

It's got a round rubber plug that you can either pop out of place, or you can puncture to feed a wire through (I used the prior option)

^Where the red power wire is going in.

I didn't see that one.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

There is a floor gromment on the passenger side, that has a huge harness going through it to the under hood fuse box/battery location. I use that one because it's near the exhaust.

So, I need to punch a hole big enough to get the connector for the sensor through. Maybe just s slit.

Sorry for all the dumb azz questions. I'm learning as i go......

**Scottydoggs** · 01-25-2014

pretty sure most drill a hole in the rubber block on the pass side floor. watch out for the wires in the block tho.

for the fire wall grommet, i've used a hanger, cut down to 6 inches or so, and tape the wire to the coat hanger and pushed the hanger through then find it on the inside and pull it through. called a fish tape pretty much.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

pretty sure most drill a hole in the rubber block on the pass side floor. watch out for the wires in the block tho.

for the fire wall grommet, i've used a hanger, cut down to 6 inches or so, and tape the wire to the coat hanger and pushed the hanger through then find it on the inside and pull it through. called a fish tape pretty much.

That's what I plan on trying later today..... Don't know what I'm going to do next tho.

Maybe find out why #2 cylinder is misfiring.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Well, I knew this Long screwdriver was going to come in handy........

I taped the sensor wire to it and ran them through the firewall.

Worked like a charm.....unfortunately, I couldn't get the factory sensor out of it's hole...........

**Scottydoggs** · 01-25-2014

if you can work on it when its good and hot, take it for a ride, then try to crack it loose. heats the best trick ever.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Great Idea SD! I'll give it a try tomorrow!

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

I gotta get a small torch.

**Scottydoggs** · 01-25-2014

they sell a o2 socket, as well as a wrench, or a line wrench works well. then if using a wrench hook another wrench on the end of it for more leverage.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Crap! There ain't enough room for that!

**Scottydoggs** · 01-25-2014

if thats the case take it to a muffler shop and have them weld in a new bung for the wideband. leave the o2 where it is.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

I think I might have the solution. A long plumbers wrench!

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 01-25-2014

You must keep the factory o2 sensor.

Have an exhaust shop weld the bung in the exhaust before the cat converter if the car has one.

**traildog** · 01-25-2014

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

You must keep the factory o2 sensor.

Have an exhaust shop weld the bung in the exhaust before the cat converter if the car has one.

But it's not connected.

**coolone** · 01-26-2014

Again, if you do not have the ability to TUNE the PCM, removing the stock narrowband O2 sensor will cause problems!!!

is there something you're missing from this information?

If you DO have a tuner, you can remove the O2 codes & diagnostic checks and put the engine in open loop in absence of the O2 sensor. A wideband in place of an O2 is not going to work otherwise... There's nothing telling the engine what is happening from the fueling/combustion.

therefore, take it to a muffler shop and have em weld in an extra bung as per instructions so you can have both the stock and wideband.

Good luck!

**Scottydoggs** · 01-26-2014

his car is tuned to some degree, if the cel for a o2 is not on its been tuned out, being its not plugged in.

he got this car like a 1/2 asses tossed together turbo set up. hes still working all the bugs out of it little by little.

this is just one of the few things hes working on atm.

**traildog** · 01-26-2014

Originally Posted by coolone

Again, if you do not have the ability to TUNE the PCM, removing the stock narrowband O2 sensor will cause problems!!!

is there something you're missing from this information?

If you DO have a tuner, you can remove the O2 codes & diagnostic checks and put the engine in open loop in absence of the O2 sensor. A wideband in place of an O2 is not going to work otherwise... There's nothing telling the engine what is happening from the fueling/combustion.

therefore, take it to a muffler shop and have em weld in an extra bung as per instructions so you can have both the stock and wideband.

Good luck!

If removing a sensor that's not connected to anything is going to cause problems.....I definitely AM missing something.....

Easy now...I'm slowly but surely getting this ride together. AND it WAS tuned by some "tuning guru" in Michigan.

**traildog** · 01-26-2014

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

his car is tuned to some degree, if the cel for a o2 is not on its been tuned out, being its not plugged in.

he got this car like a 1/2 asses tossed together turbo set up. hes still working all the bugs out of it little by little.

this is just one of the few things hes working on atm.

PO said the car has "cat delete" what (other than it has no cat) does that mean?

**Scottydoggs** · 01-26-2014

normally it means theres no cat, and you would tune the rear o2 to not report.

**traildog** · 01-26-2014

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

normally it means theres no cat, and you would tune the rear o2 to not report.

rear o2 is the one I'm trying to remove, correct?

**231FUN** · 01-26-2014

We established the fact that you have no rear o2 sensor in your last exhaust thread and that if you had no code for it then it likely had been tuned out...remember.
From the pictures you've posted I'm seeing two o2 sensors currently plugged/screwed in to your car, you have one in the stock location in the bung in the rear manifold and one in the downpipe.

Alot of turbo setups have the bung in the downpipe with the narrow band o2 connected there and have the stock bung in the rear exhaust manifold capped.
Did some one get lazy and leave a narrow band in there unplugged instead of capping the bung hole?
Guessing the o2 sensor in the downpipe is connected to the wiring harness and the one in the rear manifold is not?
Not sure what you have going on, can't see where any wiring is going with your close up pics.
Do you have the WB o2 sensor that came with the AEM kit that was with the car?