Lmao your threads just bring on so much butthurt it's hilarious.
Nicely done as usual. Keep up the updates!
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Lmao your threads just bring on so much butthurt it's hilarious.
Nicely done as usual. Keep up the updates!
they dont have to sync since both are connected to the ground via a viscous tq multiplying clutch.
most of this is by driver throttle control and a bit of getting used too...developing the feel for what she likes.
we are looking at throttle cable for the front and DBW for the rear since i can setup a pedal sensor at the cable pedal as well as be switchable to a remote thumb control.
while its nice to have them at a 1to1 throttle ratio on the street, you really want independent controls. best launches are the rear at WOT and the front feathered at the edge of traction, start spinning the front and she does try to push out of the groove.
you end up with on demand oversteer/understeer...quite excellent once you get the hang of it.
sometimes i wish we would have documented or shenanigans more...everyone at the OG W body fudruckers meet knows what im sayin lol
Very cool project! I hope you get the results you are looking for once finished.
Don't mind the nitpickers, part of being an automotive enthusiast (IMO) is about trying new things that inherently make some people uncomfortable. A lot of "One size fits all" solutions may not apply to your particular project, and some people are going to have a hard time accepting that.
Best of luck!
shhhh... let them think it is done via magical synching technique lol...
Every single person that ever looked at my project, their first question is "How are you going to sync the engines together ? "
Can the DBW work with a 2000 year PCM ? Is the system independant ?Quote:
we are looking at throttle cable for the front and DBW for the rear since i can setup a pedal sensor at the cable pedal as well as be switchable to a remote thumb control.
We were brainstorming some ideas about controlling each engine:
1- Have 2 gas pedal one beside the other. That enables control of each engine independantly for burnouts but it would be very hard to feather an engine more than the other during acceleration.
2- Have a Thumb controlled engine (rear) like a snowmobile. That is something I'm very familiar with driving, it wouldn't be hard for me at all. But if I have to do an emergency maneuver to get the car back in line, it could be a BIG problem because I couldn't keep controlling the throttle for the rear engine with the steering wheel hard right or hard left.
3- 2 gas pedals, one where the parking brake pedal is and go with a hand operated parking brake. That would enable smooth control of each engine but it would quite the training to get rid of the habit of using the left leg for braking only. That could be dangerous in a situation where instincts take over.
So TBC400SBC, you did run your twin engine already ?
Zzp has been into this 3800 scene for 15 years. Ive been in it for 10. And some guy comes in with zero experience and says we only know myths and bullcrap. I tell him things backed with actual results and data and I get called stupid because he has a theory that im wrong....
This is why this guy is a moron, I could care less about anything he is doing. The dumb crap we all tried in 05 is being done again here after we've already proven it all out.
Do not put words I never said into my mouth. You always twist my words and try to put people against me. You can stop now, it's not working.
You keep calling me a kid. I don't know how old you are but I'm 37.
Second, you say I have zero experience yet I've been tuning turbo cars since 1998.
Also I make a living tuning turbo sleds, cars and all kind of machines.
I'm not going to go in details but what we are doing to my 3.8 turbo cars is pretty simple stuff compared to the extend we go in other appluications.
Thanks for calling me a Moron, you really hurt my feelings...lol
Lots of progress today on the Twin Engine GTP !
Huge technical issues figured out.
There was a geometry issue with the suspension, toe in/out alignment.
The suspension had way too much travel because of the very stiff preload on the spring/shock.
I wanted something safe, reliable. We could have done the simple cable mod to limit the travel but a failure of the cable could be catastrophic on the big end at the speed I'll be crossing the traps.
So I figured out a way to limit the suspension travel in a safe way. The car should be ready to test this weekend. Maybe not track ready but ready for initial testing.
Here's the suspension fix. The Geometry issue with the toe in has been figured out and will be fixed tomorrow.
We wired most of the rear engine. Front engine is ready to go (not turbo yet but S/C small pulley).
Rear engine could fire as early as tomorrow night.
Tomorrow we fix the toe in issue, install rear axles and complete the reinforcement for the rear engine.
Pictures will be uploaded in a few minutes.
BTW the suspension limiter is equipped with a kevlar reinforced belt to have some give and it's bulletproof and will not shred. It's made to drive snowmobiles.
So we completed the above mod for the suspension. The kevlar reinforced rubber piece that acts as a cushion for the preload/height adjuster is now held in place.
We put in new mounts everywhere, perfected the suspension settings and alignement. Now it sits right ( we might preload a little more to make it even stiffer in the back)
The drivetrain is ready. We need to add some support to the body and do the electronics for the dash, push button start.
Very happy to get all the geometry right, it acts just the way it should when putting 400lbs of jumping weight in the back to simulate weight transfer.
Seeing on the ground with the E.T. Streets makes it exciting, can't wait to drive that thing !
interesting
yeah, ass in the air isnt good, its more weight above the axle centerline in the rear (with most leverage) even though it helps by moving weight below the axle centerline up front, the amount is negligible via the shorter "lever"
unfortunatly its one of the side effects of stiff enough springs to prevent the car from squating.
does look donk as ****...lol
Maybe lowering more and tilting motors foward more would help out
My height is fully adjustable via the stoppers. At the same time that increases pre-load for less weight transfer.
Yesterday with made little progress as we spend the day setting up a drag quad with 330 HP (sled engine).
The thing is a BULLET. Easily an 8 sec quad on the 1/4 if he can hook.
Today we are adding support for the rear engine/chassis. Depending on things go, I'd love to start the engine and get the electronics mostly done.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/17/y7apyseb.jpg
That is jason one my crew members working on the quad
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/17/zuda7yru.jpg
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Lots of progress today but nothing interesting or fun. We made the rear engine and strut supports stronger but adding weight. Better safe then sorry.
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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/19/y4ypupez.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/19/amu9aheg.jpg
Wishbone throttle lol
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This is sweet
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