98 Grand Prix Coolant and Break Problem

[Thenerveman]

UGHHHH I spelled brake wrong! The post got deleted on accident the first time and I hurried up and retyped it =P.


Hi,

Okay well I will start with the coolant problem first:

The elbow leaked real bad and was losing a bunch of water about two weeks ago so I replaced it and the water pump. However, now I still have the light on even though there is plenty of water in it. I assume there is an air bubble in it still. It currently has the light on until the fans kick on then it goes off and when the engine is cool enough the light comes back on. Any thoughts? If so, how can I fix it?

Second:

The brakes shake horribly when stopping now. I thought it was the front rotors (since they were really warped) so I replaced them but there is no change. I am going to replace the back and was wondering if you guys thought it was the rear ones or not. I also was wondering how well the old pads will bed with the new rotors, they seem to be in decent shape.

Thanks.


UPDATE:

- Rear rotors and pads were replaced fixing all pulsating problems. they were in really bad shape.

- Coolant light is still on. Everything works fine. prolly just bad sensor.

- As for tcs light. I dont care right now haha.

[231FUN]

The low coolant light is a common Gp issue.
The sensor either needs to be replaced or cleaned, mine and many others do the same I just ignore it as I know when the car is low on coolant.
The brake issue sounds like maybe you need to pull apart the rear brakes and re lube or antisieze the caliper slide pins and possibly the fronts if you didn't do so when you replaced the rotors.
There is a bleeder valve to get rid of air in the system on the thermostat housing BTW.

[Scottydoggs]

do what 321 said, grease the sliders and such. but also check the front end out for bad tie rods, struts, or lower control arms/ ball joints.

my guess is you feel the problem from the front of the car and in the steering wheel.

[Thenerveman]

OK I do not feel it in the steering wheel at all so I guess its the back? And ill grease it and see how it goes. Also the brake pads are literally touching the rotors in the front (had to lightly force rotor between pads when installing). Is that okay?

[stocker]

I'm not an expert but the pads are always touching, or very close the rotor. With the slider bolts well lubed you can avoid almost all hangup or dragging.

So as far as I'm concerned that would be fine.

[Thenerveman]

Okay thanks. I think i am gonna just replace the rear rotors. Grease the front and rear slides, and see if i can somehow fix that coolant light. Other than that if i could figure out that stupid TCS i would be so happy. but that is for another day and i have anew car on the way. soooooo prolly wont worry about it. This car is nothing but fixing after 230k miles.

[Scottydoggs]

tcs, as in track off light? thats abs related, bad hub or wire. even a dirty plug to a hub can cause it. if you can find a bad hub or wire, have it scanned at a shop, they charge, but the scan can tell you exactly were to look and whats not communicating.

[Thenerveman]

Yeahh. I know its not one of the hubs. i replaced all 4 within the last year and its still on. i know its around the passenger side since every time i seem to touch it i goes off for like 2 seconds when driving then stays off. I could have it scanned. and i might as my uncle is a mechanic and owes us a favor for some work i did for him. However i just really don't want to put any more money in it since i have a new one on the way. However , i may keep it as a winter beater. Id like to fix that tcs/abs light, new tires, new brake rotors in back, coolant pump light, and rear brake lines (rusted almost to the point its dangerous) and possibly a tune as it has a really rough idle atm haha.

[wolverine]

I'd recommend changing the pads along with the rotors. Pads are fairly cheap (maybe $25 or less for a set of rears) and you'll be assured of having good contact between them and the rotors from day one. I need to do my rear brakes as well and from what I have read so far, it's a simple swap and there's no need to use a special tool to rotate the caliper or anything because of the parking brake adjuster. At least that's how it is on the '05, yours being a '98 might be different.

[cavell]

you spelled brake wrong in thread title and than spelled it wrong in your last post.

[Thenerveman]

Hmm. >.>

[stocker]

you spelled brake wrong in thread title and than spelled it wrong in your last post.

Then this guy tried to correct your spelling.

[Thenerveman]

Then this guy tried to correct your spelling.

Haha thanks for pointing that out.

BTW I did just replace the pads and rotors and greased the slides. Everything is great now. The rotors/pads were shot. When i went to install them one pad was literally bent and it wasnt til i had almost everything together that i found out and had to tear everything back apart to get another set of the parts. it was a pain.

[stocker]

One of the new pads was bent? That would suck but glad it's back together and working well!

[Thenerveman]

yup literally bent about and cracked down the center on the new one. I was mad. Guy at the store was shocked haha

[cavell]

Then you will be smarter than your average bear

[Thenerveman]

Then you will be smarter than your average bear

What?

[cavell]

Ask stocker

[stocker]

Ask stocker

Cavell has me confused but I wasn't going to admit it.