Thread: 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix Shuts off without warning while driving.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

ouch, over 20 bucks mark up on the part right there, if you bought a puller and the part, and did it your self, this job would run you around 50 bucks.

yeah but i dont have the tools to do the job nor the mechanical inclination to do it right lol

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

well that sucks, but the truth is even if you went and bought tools it would still cost under a 100. its not that hard really.

yeah but like i said i would rather have someone do it right (we would all hope) than someone who is not familiar at all with anything more complicated than basic work tools lol.

Also i was wrong about the Code that came back... I have updated the code with the link in the original updated post....

The code was P0336

Would the car shutting down at 40 mph change any ones diagnosis. All the other systems are the same.

I have been having the same problem lately. Car will intermittently stall at idle and has event cut out, or stumbled, while accelerating but then continues on.
Garet

Thanks for the info ScottyDogs, or is that Mr. Killa Bee? This gives me something to watch for and I'll do searches on these topics.
Garet

Killa Bee - I went to easyautodiagnostics.com for the diagnostic procedure. Followed the author's advice and purchased a multimeter with HZ reading capability. I have diagnosed the MAF sensor and ICM so far. I was to look for 12 volts when testing the MAF sensor for power but I only get a reading of 11.4 volts. Is this bad being down 0.6 volts. The HZ on the MAF reads 2.75 plus or minus 0.1 at idle and goes up to about 5 at max throttle. These reading were repeated several times. I am assuming that the MAF sensor is good but do I have an input power problem? For the ICM I get 10.2 volts which should be OK as he says to look for a reading between 10 to 12 volts. Ground reads 12 volts for both sensors. My next step is to test the crank position sensor using the multimeter method as I haven't been able to source a LED tester. The author says to disconnect power to the fuel injectors to prevent fuel being injected into the engine during the test procedure. Do you think pulling the fuse to the fuel pump would achieve the same result?
Your advice is greatly appreciated. Garet

The saga continues. I have since checked the alternator for output and it appears to be good. I get readings of 14.25 plus or minus 0.25 volts at the battery, car running and with no electrical load. Turning on various electrical circuits shows a quick drop to 12-13 volts and then an rise to the 14 - 14.5 volts range. I tested the crank case position sensor, multi-meter method, and get readings of 6.55 volts for the 3X Sync signal and 6.57 for the 18X signal. According to the trouble shooting website the readings should fall between 5 and 6 volts so I'm not sure if the slightly higher readings are an issue. Plugs and wires were recently changed with no improvement. Coils are good plus I used a fine emery cloth to sand the coil contacts and the surfaces of the ignition control unit to ensure a proper ground. Also, I took out the MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. So I'm stumped as to why the car will randomly shut off when idling or stumble when accelerating. Anybody got any ideas here?
Garet