wheel studs

**ibanez0110** · 11-04-2008

so i'm having a super difficult time with this... i have aftermarket which are thicker then the stock ones. the guy i bought my car from put longer studs in the oem hubs...worked great. of course, a month after owning the car, the wheel bearings in the front went out, and as i've found, all of the aftermarket hub/bearing assemblies come with the same studs, which are too short/not enough thread. i've been to about 10 different places today, including tire places, muffler man, tuffy, autozone, all of that. the only place i had some hope at was carquest, and i'll find out tommorrow if the studs they ordered might work, there might be a clearance issue with it being flared a bit by the knurl...if that makes sense. anyway, if anyone has had similar problems, please tell me what they did....or what studs they ordered..

**Blown97** · 11-04-2008

Pound out the long ones that are on your old hubs, pound out the studs on the new hubs and reinstall the longer studs on your new hubs?

**Scimmia** · 11-04-2008

IIRC, the ARP wheel studs are longer than stock.

**ibanez0110** · 11-05-2008

yeah, the studs on the old hubs are different...the ones on the aftermarket hubs are a stupid size, and the only luck i've had is carquest has one that might work, it's shaped a bit different though, so it might have wheel/brake rotor hub clearance issues....we'll see i guess. what are the arp studs you talk of?

**Blown97** · 11-05-2008

According to some these are supposed to be the ones that work for our cars.

GM: Camaro/Firebird/Corvette, late GM, 12mm x 1.5 thread, 2 1/2 in. long, .509 in. knurl diameter, wheel studs

Part # ARP-100-7708

Link: ARP 100-7708 - ARP Wheel Studs - summitracing.com

**ibanez0110** · 11-06-2008

well, i did some research. the stock studs are 12mm knurl diameter, 41.7 mm length, and a 1.5 thread. the studs i need have to be a 14.2 knurl diameter, probably somewhere around 50 mm length, and the same thread.

**GR8racingfool** · 11-07-2008

Serious advice from me would be to either run good used stock front wheel bearings, or if you want new, Timkin bearings from AutoZone seem to last the longest out there, AND they use the same size stud as the stock wheel hubs, and you CAN use the ARP studs in them no problem.

One local had to run longer studs because of his rims, and has worn out his hub bearings. He bought new Timkins and we used my arbor press and pressed the studs out of his old stock ones, and his new Timkin ones, and then with a little anti-seize for slickness, and a grade 8 washer and a sacrificed stock lug nut, ran the nut on with an impact, lined up the splines, and then ran the impact some more till the stud was seated in the hub. Did that for them all, easy as pie.

Just my $0.02 on the deal.

Timkin FTW!

~F~

**Zef_66** · 11-10-2008

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

Serious advice from me would be to either run good used stock front wheel bearings, or if you want new, Timkin bearings from AutoZone seem to last the longest out there, AND they use the same size stud as the stock wheel hubs, and you CAN use the ARP studs in them no problem.

One local had to run longer studs because of his rims, and has worn out his hub bearings. He bought new Timkins and we used my arbor press and pressed the studs out of his old stock ones, and his new Timkin ones, and then with a little anti-seize for slickness, and a grade 8 washer and a sacrificed stock lug nut, ran the nut on with an impact, lined up the splines, and then ran the impact some more till the stud was seated in the hub. Did that for them all, easy as pie.

Just my $0.02 on the deal.

Timkin FTW!

~F~

I agree with running stock hubs. That is the only ones I will run. I have heard Timkins are good. But haven't run them. I buy good used hubs from Ed.

I don't run longer studs, but I have had to change a few. I just use a big 3-4lb hammer, pound out the old studs, line up the splines, and pound in the new ones. I don't have a press and the BFH works just fine for me.

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