Thread: Starts then dies?? New MAF and battery, Help please!!'

So here it goes,1997 Gtp,180xxx miles.

Problem first happened last week, it would start like normal, then chug and die within 10 seconds. I could keep it running as long as I kept it over 3,000 rpms... So I got the code reader out because the CEL came on and it was p0102 (I think) I just know it was the low voltage mass air flow sensor code... So I unplugged the MAF and nothing changed... Then I cleared the code and tried to start it a few times and after a couple times it ran like normal. Drove it every day for 9 days with no problems. Then suddenly 2 nights ago it died on me at an intersection, (the first time it happened was when i went to start it asc i was leaving work after a 7 hour shift) so I pushed it to the gas station and took the code reader out and it was the low volt MAF code again. Cleared it and this time it didn't change anything, and my battery died and I had to get a jump just to try to start it cuz the battery was a POS anyways and had been giving me problems for weeks. But this time it wouldn't run right without me giving it gas unlike like the first time I cleared the code and it temporarily solved the problem, oh and the code didn't come back...so I went to auto zone and bought a new MAF and battery... Put them in and guess what?? Nothing changed except I could crank it without getting a jump... Didn't throw any more codes either....
I read somewhere on here that if I don't have the stupid screen thing in my TB that it would do this, but it's been out for a very long time???
Next guess is my idle air control valve since it runs fine except to idle...

Bend pin 85 on the fuel pump relay

Exactly what do you mean by that? Sorry I may sound like I'm stupid but I don't know whatchya mean. Thanks for the quick reply btw

Never-mind I googled it, thank you.

Could I just buy a new relay and that should fix it right?

If that works, the issue is the fuel pump speed resistor, not the relay. The pin bending puts your pump into high speed only. which is how 99.9% of cars on the road run. You could replace the resistor or be a rebel like many of us (yes I am) and never look back if the pin bend fixes it.

However the amount of fuel you have with the resistor bad, is only 3-4 seconds.

So basically just cut that pin off and if that fixes it either leave it that way or fix the resistor?

Just bend the tab out so it can't go in its slot. Takes 2 seconds.

But yes, if that fixes it, and it probably will. Just leave it like that. It's not going to harm anything by doing that

Thanks guys. It worked... New MAF and battery later, needed the battery but not the MAF, it was spotless when I took it out because I clean it every oil change...

Other question for ya all tho, that stupid honeycomb screen inside the TB, do you NEED it or does it not matter?

leave the screen in the TB as its there to smooth out the air for the maf to read it.

some say it made no difference removing it, others found it idled poorly. or other issues.

i'd leave it there.

Yah only problem is, it has a few holes in it from what looks like someone grabbing it with pliers to take out... So I'm wondering if I should find one at a junkyard or if the 3 dime sized holes don't matter?

if the holes are by the edge id not worry to much. if its really f'ed up, junk yard would be the best deal. or see how it runs with out it, if feels ok, leave it off. its hit or miss for most people who remove it.

I would try to find a good one. Mine was missing when i bought the car. Idle smoothed after I replaced it with one from jy.
I hear our 97's are particularly sensitive to this.