Thread: Are these pretty much toast?

mine cam right the F off. i mean like real easy. must have been cause i was at Bills house lol


i will add, if you ever swap your tranny, thats a good time to change the lca's, as the sub frame is on the floor now.

Yeah didn't do it then already swapped that haha

How hard is it to change just the bushing though? I don't wanna spend $60 on the LCAs then end up not being able to get mine off and throwing away the new ones in defeat

pretty sure you need a press to get them out and back in.

new are 42 bucks each, whats the problem? lol new arm, bushings and a new ball joint, you need to take the arm off to change the bushing, so why not just put a whole new arm in there.

oh get a new set of end links for your sway bar, or plan on getting them, if old, they never come off.

Sway air and endlinks are band new, the problem is I feel like I'm gonna buy new arms, get my car in the air, go to get the old ones off and not be able to then get stuck with the control arms and have wasted my money

well theres always you can return them. but i almost guarantee you with a little pb blaster and a braker bar they'll come off fine

Originally Posted by asite57

Sway air and endlinks are band new, the problem is I feel like I'm gonna buy new arms, get my car in the air, go to get the old ones off and not be able to then get stuck with the control arms and have wasted my money

why would they not come off? its not that bad really. spray all the nuts down for a few days before you go at it if it makes you feel better.

like i said, mines a 98 and the nuts all came right off. not even a fight. no pre lubing or nothing. iirc, after they broke free, i took the nuts off by hand.

I don't have a pickle fork could I just use a crow bar?

The hardest bolts are ball joint and sway bars end links both can be cut off if you have a sawzall. Those pics are from my mom and dads venture with 220k miles and it came right apart. My car i had to cut off ball joints.

Originally Posted by asite57

I don't have a pickle fork could I just use a crow bar?

U don't need a pickle fork...if replacing them a hammer or something to bang em out with will work fine. Done it several times

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

believe it or not, at Bills house, he stuck a 4 or 5 foot pipe over the top of the lca, then under the car, then hopped on the bar and whacked the lca with a hammer at the ball joint area. popped right off. like a boss. no fuss, no muss.

Did you need an alignment afterwards?

your wheel may or may not be off a bit. 50/50 shot. if you need tie rods or anything else now would be a good time, then get it all aligned.

my wheel was off a bit, but i think that was due more to the sub frame not being exactly where it was when it went back on. the rack bolts to the sub frame, so if the sub frame moves, the wheel will move.

Why did your subframe move? I already changed the tie rods

u can change it on the car if u have a lift and air hammer u air hammer the old bushing ring out and then use a reg hammer and jack stand and hammer the new bushing in bushings are like 10 bucks at autozone easy to do just remember to lube up the new one before installing

his subframe was out for a trans swap ^^

Billboost swapped my tranny, so the sub frame had to come off the car. thats when i jumped on the lca's . when it went back on it must have been off to one side a bit.

you should be ok. but either way bushings or new arms theres a chance of the wheel being off a bit. its a major front end part. if it was last aligned with old parts then you put new parts in, things can change with in the alignment.

Yeah it's no big deal doing an alignment is easy ill probably Judy sway the arms this is very expensive if I have to have a shop do it

from Bills axle swap how to. http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-r...xle-39805.html

Bring in a 4-5 foot prybar (I use my steel floor jack handle) from by the front bumper where the wheel well meets it toward the body between the body edge and subframe bolts. Slide it under the axle and over the control arm.

Pry down. It helps to have a helper. At the same time as the prying, hit the balljoing on the side (not where the grease zerk is, other side ) and after a few hits the ball joint will come free from the knuckle. Move the strut/knuckle behind the ball joint before letting the control arm back up.

seen this in real life, made it all look easy lol

Ill give it a shot