5* of knock retard at WOT please help

[asite57]

alright so i am getting 5* of KR at WOT but it doesnt just all come at once it builds up to 5 the faster i go the more KR i have i only went up to 90mph then backed off it goes away when i let off too. i dont know whats causing this my car is a 99 GTP bone stock and i ALWAYS run 93 grade gas. my only theory is that the MAF is going bad and that could be causing it sometimes when i put it in P or R or D the RPMs will shoot up to like 1200 then come back down im also getting pretty ****ty gas millage when i go light on it. could a bad MAF cause whet im describing. theres no KR while normal driving and theres no engine codes

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Stock cars knock.

They all do.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

And if the SES pops on when you are romping on it, you have problems.

Most likely misfire.

[asite57]

no ses light when im flooring it, what do you mean stock cars knock? i thought knock was bad?!? im new to forced induction so please bare with me

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

knock = knock retard.

pcm pulls timing to prevent boom.

All stock gtps have KR, because the exhaust is restrictive. Sure it can flow in tons of air, but cant get it out nearly as fast. hence why he always say "flow mods" when you want to start modding.

[asite57]

yeah that makes sense a lot of sense some parts of this exhaust really make me wonder what they were thinking, so what your saying is that if i but headers with a catless down pipe and a ubend delete i should be able to fix the KR and have none at WOT

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Headers should get rid of most to all kr with stock pulley.

[asite57]

what about the rpm jumping issue?

[wa04compg]

My car had up to 6 degree stock dropped to about 4 with just a downpipe...with headers im sure you wouldn't have any at all

[asite57]

hmmm ok so this isnt something i should worrie about i was planning on doing headers in june but if its causing my engine to knock then i wanted to fix it, a i got another question its gonna sound kinda dumb but if i have 0* of knock retard does that mean i have no knock or can an engine still knock without KR?

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

knock = knock retard.

I think you are trying to think of a thing like rod knock where you can actually hear the rod smacking the crank.

This KR (knock) you cant hear, the car senses what is going on via KR sensors and when it happens it pulls timing and stuff to make it not kill itself.

[asite57]

ohhhhhhhh ok that makes a lot of sense my old 3.1 in the buick i had knocked constantly but still ran to 155k miles then i get a GTP and get on here and everyones like knock is the end of your motor so when i scanned for KR today and saw i had some i was like oh **** there goes my car but you all are saying its alright and some $250 headers should fix it right up

[dsmuts]

Headers are hands down the best mod I did to my car. It helped out tremendously. Knocked 4 seconds off my 0-100 times.

[asite57]

what kind of intake do you have?

[blueguy]

Kind of a dead thread but im experiencing the same thing almost but im running on a stock pulley with sd headers and 3 in exhaust. Engine only has bout 2500 miles on it. i still need to put a new fuel filter on it but i dont know if that would help any. The car has just seemed kinda sluggish and my throttle response isnt the greatest. just doesnt seem like im making the power i should be but im not sure if im just expecting to much. I know i need a tune but just didnt know if anyone would have any suggestions on other things i should try? i do know i have a tiny exhaust leak to on my crossover for my headers but that should be getting fixed tomorrow

An exhaust leak before the o2 will destroy fuel trims...

could be running pretty rich, that would explain sluggishness...intake has nothing to do with that.

Fix that, check the motor mounts...see if they are toast.

[asite57]

when i put an open cone on my car it had a little better throttle response

[SlowNA06]

Vacuum hoses and connections dry rot. Check those. Make sure your spark plugs are not too old and they're proper gap. Clean throttle body, clean MAF sensor.

[blueguy]

His car is most likely drowning in fuel, and has shot mounts like every other factory WBody...putting in solid lower mounts and flipping the upper dog bones 90* cures that "sloppy feel" and gets the power to the ground.

Changing intake placement isn't going to matter more than a tenth of a percent of thinking it does...it's all in your head. Maybe if you had an intake running down under your car vs. an open cone...that might make a difference...but otherwise, no. Not really.

[al2000gtp]

thanks for the suggestions guys. i have a hai and i have not checked the motor mounts yet but have flipped the dogbones. still have the small leak on my crossover because i didnt have any time to fix it today with work and bball. did do a lil comparing with a couple buddies at work today and notice that they are both getting a lot more vacuum than i am. one is a turbo cobalt and the other is a supercharged civic si and they were both sitting at about 20 at an idle and im sitting at about 9 to 9.5 at an idle. I dont know what i should be getting but i would think it should be pretty close to what they are getting while im just sitting at an idle. today i did scan it and see that a p0135 code popped back up. this is the second time ive seen it so im thinking i might have a bad o2 (bank 1 sensor 1). also on the to do list is a new fuel filter that never got put in when the engine did. Another thing ive noticed is it smells pretty rich but i was just thinking that was because i no longer have a cat. Any way i know i should start checking for vac leaks maybe change the o2 sensor unless you guys think otherwise and get my exhaust leaks fixed. cleaning the throttle body and maf prolly isnt a bad idea either since i dont think that has ever been done and i think i could possibly have the couple on my sc going out. im starting to hear a lil rattle coming from the sc at idle, its not as bad as some of the vids ive seen on youtube but there is a slight rattle there so it prolly couldnt hurt to change the coupler. dont know how much all of this will help but i didnt just drop all this money so i couldnt go fast Again thank you guys for all the suggestions and keep em coming if you guys feel like im missing anything

[blueguy]

Guy, you can't compare the vacuum two totally different cars make at idle...lolll.

Is the code a P0171?

Because it sounds like a vacuum leak.

And dropping $200 is a lot? efffffffffffffffffffffff, dude, my headers were like $600 back in the day...other other people paid a grand for ZZP headers when they first hit the market.

Post up the actual code you're getting and get back to us. Because I'm betting 20:1 it's a vac leak you caused during the header install...or if you tried to save the EGR, the metal tube might be leaking.