if i do need to replace the fuel pump. Someone said it cost like $30 but when I look it up i see prices like $89-220 Where can I find the $30 one lol
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if i do need to replace the fuel pump. Someone said it cost like $30 but when I look it up i see prices like $89-220 Where can I find the $30 one lol
if your gas gauge works still all you need is to open the canister and change the fuel pump. thats only 30 bucks, well about, the whole canister is 200 to 300.
call a few parts stores to see if they carry it or can get it, they would rather sell the whole canister, so they dont always stock the just the pump.
and then theres ebay.
now the car wont even crank
Need to charge your battery. Most likely its drained from continuously trying to start it.
charged it and same thing happens. Still no turn over
So what do you get, just a click of the starter and nothing? Does everything else electrical keep working or does it all go dark? Also, when you turn the key to just before the start position (where the entire dash lights up) do you hear the fuel pump prime? If not then it's toast, assuming all fuses and wiring are good.
And unless I misread an earlier post, PLEASE do NOT use starting fluid to search for vac leaks. I've seen it flash on people a few times after it hits something hot. You really don't want a fireball under the hood. Ether is way more volatile than gasoline or anything like that. Just use carb cleaner and save your skin for wrenching not burning. Matter of fact I wouldn't use starting fluid at all on these motors. There is no reason why you should need it. The only time I could see it is to prove you aren't getting fuel, and even then its a poor excuse for not using the correct method (fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve). Loading it up w/ ether is hard on a motor and can cause major problems if too much is used (bent rod, hole in piston, etc...).
i get the click of the starter then everything goes dark.
Are the gauges "twitching" when the key is in the on position? I've replaced 2 batteries in my car and that was the clear sign the battery was spent.
when i intitially put the key in the on position its normal but when i try to start the car they twitch then when i go back to the on position they twitch.
Either the battery is shot, or one or both of the cables are corroded or loose. Double check the tightness of the cables as the slightest bit loose can cause exactly that. My positive cable was slightly loose one day and it ran fine to my buddy's house, went to leave and click, dark. Tightened the cable and good to go.
well i got the car to crank today but still doesnt start
I had someone start the car while i listened to the fuel pump. First i heard the car trying to start and then when they stopped cranking it i heard almost like a laser sound. I dont know if thats what you guys mean when you say you should hear the fuel pump. But when they put it to the on position i didnt hear anything
if you have some one there who can turn the key to on, not start. and if you open the trunk and stick your head in there towards the back of the back seat you should clearly hear a whine for about 5 seconds, thats the pump priming. that 5 seconds after the key is turned to on.
yea i didnt hear anything. So that means i need a new fuel pump?
in the trunk take the carpet out, you will see a trap door bolted down, un bolt it take the cover off, thats your fuel pump under it, pull the plug off and test for power, if you have power at the plug, the pump is dead. test with the key to on.
when you push the shrader valve in nothing come out? thats on the front fuel rail by the oil fill cap.
actually nevermind i hear the fuel pump. The car started and turned off after like two seconds though
but when i push the shrader valve nothing comes out
this time when i pushed the shrader valve fuel shot out
so im getting fuel now. It just starts and dies now