Thread: EGR and knock sensor question

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  1. #1 EGR and knock sensor question 
    GT Level Member GTLGDP's Avatar
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    Well i found my knock sensor code problem. Turns out the sensor was completely fine just chillin in the engine block, but there was no connection to it at all. The previous owner just cut it off. What would he gain by doing this? I had to go back where all the wires were and put in a new connector. What the hell would that connector be completely missing for?

    Now, i still have an insufficient EGR flow code. No idea why, because i replaced the actual EGR itself, and checked all of the flow in and around the throttle body and nothing is stopping it at all.
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  2. #2 Re: EGR and knock sensor question 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    It helps a ton when you tell us symptoms and we guess at things. Maybe not guess, but diagnose.

    1. I'm interested in your knock sensor situation because I'm pissed at my car but haven't given it a moment of time yet.

    Insufficient flow, if you read up on this code, you'll find the PCM uses the MAP sensor to determine if there is a difference in flow/pressure in the UIM when it tells the EGR to open. If you have a leak, bad map etc ...your pcm might think it's not seeing a change in flow.

    AKA.. you wasted money on that EGR.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  3. #3 Re: EGR and knock sensor question 
    GTP Level Member Rico's Avatar
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    So you removed the corrugated tube and the UIM to make sure there is no blockage up to the LIM and through the "stove pipe"? Also check the tube that comes from the exhaust to the EGR. These get jammed up with carbon and they don't have to be completely clogged to cause problems.

    As far as the MAP sensor goes, you can scan and watch the MAP signal when the PCM commands EGR. You should see a nice deflection with RPM held steady.
    It's a CUMMINS Dodge not a Dodge Cummins
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