Drilled doesnt cool.
Curved veins cools.
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Drilled doesnt cool.
Curved veins cools.
I did some more research last night, trying to educate myself on brakes and rotors for everyday driving, and I've come to the conclusion that basically slotted and drilled rotors are a bad idea unless I'm on a track or performance driving. I gathered that they are more about show than practicality. For show really. At this point I'm looking for zinc coated rotors that are not slotted or drilled. Warping is a concern so I'm hoping to get a better quality steel than the basic G3000 iron grade. I found some with G3500 iron grade. I'm thinking ceramic brakes as well. Anybody think I'm wrong? Does anyone know of a better combo for optimum quality and performance, "rust free", for everyday driving? Also, where online is the best place to get rotors and brakes?
my premium slotted rotors from r1 stay rust free other than from sitting but the plain rears from r1 get some rust
Good info John. were you able to find which brands had which iron and coatings?
PREMIUM-SERIES FACTORY REPLACEMENT Brake Rotors [2 FRONT + 2 REAR] | eBay
These are what I'm looking at. If you go to Ebay and type in R1Concepts in your rotor search you will get their store listings. At the top of the listing select "price/shipping highest to lowest" and you will see their "Premium Series" line up which consists of the G3500 iron grade and zinc coated for all four front and back for $300 and up depending on slotted or drilled or both. They have slotted only and drilled only also. If you google "which is better drilled or slotted rotors" or something similar and you can find many discussions in forums like this one about the pros and cons of the like. The one thing that stood out to me is the "drilled" rotors. Basically means less brake surface area, less braking, and comprimises the integrity of the rotor. High potential for cracking and actual splitting just like a crash symbol with a small crack, eventually it just spreads and destroys the symbol. Of course the better the quality means less chances of that happening. I'm not going to risk it. They do look cool but eh, why chance it. Slotted has other potential problems as well but I will save you having to read a long story and let you check into it if you want.
nice find there, let us all know how they worked out if you get them.
I'm not trying to sound like a goon or anything, but why not just get plain rotors and paint them when they're new? Keep the paint off the friction surface and paint down between the veins. I've done this for +20 years with success using primer and a can of flat black Rustoleum. I always do it this way and the best example I have is my wife's Suburban. I put new brakes on it when we bought it at 90,000 miles or so and she ran it about 100,000 miles or so before I replaced them (I didn't type that wrong and it has almost 230,000 on it today). It got driven every day for 10-11 years, no matter the weather. I don't recall ever touching them up when I had the wheels off and they were still painted black when I replaced them a couple years ago.
I can't speak on the drilled/slotted features, though, I'm just commenting on not wanting them to rust.
That was a great thought actually. I was thinking with the G3500 grade iron rotors and at that $ and quality they come with "E-Coat" or zinc coating anyway. Thanks though, smart idea.
Duuno, thats what I do when im not feeling lazy. I run ACdelcos tho too, not a performance slotted rotor. I use high temp header paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowDrift
Glad you posted this I though I thought I was the only one that this was all going over my head lol.