Thread: headers question

i used rtv just to be safe.

3in flex and have it welded in the same spot as the one that comes on the sd's from the factory, clamps wont work.

RTV yes

Well, you can go either way. Catless is easier/cheaper, so most people go that route. But if you want to not smell that fuel/rich smell, then get a cat.

I've installed a few Speed-daddy headers, and always used lots of RTV to be safe. Put a good thick bead around each edge of the crossover (where it meets the front/rear header) and on the downpipe, where each section of pipe meets. No need to RTV the flanges anywhere.

I havent had any issues with the flex section, but more power to you, getting a better unit welded in.

Also, make sure you plan on having the car down for 2 days. Last install, we started at about 9:30am, and went until almost 10pm...everything fought us.

Unless you're planning on going lower than 3 inches, you'll be fine with it not hitting. As with any lowering springs, make sure you avoid big bumps and potholes.

re-use the stock metal exhaust manifold gaskets, they work the best.

Originally Posted by mcsddd

last thing just to make sure cause i dont want to be running around and im trying to figure out the price of everything

2-2.25 in. clamps
2-3 in. clamps
o2 extension harness
rtv
3 in. flex pipe
and felpro gasket? Felpro/Exhaust Manifold Gasket (MS95808) | 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix 6 Cylinders 1 3.8L SFI SC OHV | AutoZone.com

am i missing anything?

That's all you need. Good luck.

Originally Posted by machinegunsquid

Well, you can go either way. Catless is easier/cheaper, so most people go that route. But if you want to not smell that fuel/rich smell, then get a cat.

I've installed a few Speed-daddy headers, and always used lots of RTV to be safe. Put a good thick bead around each edge of the crossover (where it meets the front/rear header) and on the downpipe, where each section of pipe meets. No need to RTV the flanges anywhere.

I havent had any issues with the flex section, but more power to you, getting a better unit welded in.

Also, make sure you plan on having the car down for 2 days. Last install, we started at about 9:30am, and went until almost 10pm...everything fought us.

damn 97 that's why

yea i did a set on my 99, glance at billboosts guide, and when putting the back headerin drop the rear cradle and slide the back header in from the bottom.

remember to take your sparkplugs out and or change them when your done

we did it with the engine rocked completely forward w/o the mani or dogbones installed.
it could almost go but the 97 has some odd line routing for a few things
also our #1 problem was the tranny dip stick. last resort was to remove it, and well a perfect storm lead to a gallon of tranny fluid on the driveway

it was also 1000 times easier w/ the TB out
also removing the engine pull mounts, egr and unneeded brackets

i highly suggest getting your o2 setup before you start as i had the worst experience driving for a week w/o o2 and come to find out i need a new maf

but if you are going to piant the headers make sure you spray them warm and bake them for 15 mins or else you'll end up like me and having to start stop the car until the paint fully cured.

but the reward is def worth the 13 hours of hell
also squid is the mother ****ing man

moved. this is not a how-to thread.

If you really live in the ocean I think you should have cats to help save sea creatures.