Thread: damn rusty exhaust bolts!

I either snapped our cut mine off

i was using an impact for mine, ripped the part out of the stud
soaked em in liquid wrench didnt help much lol

Lots of Pb blaster and put a socket on the bolt and hammer in the tighten direction and loosen direction then finally loosen direction till you feel like it has loosened. Thats what i did

I handled mine by paying a friend of mine with a shop and a lift $30 to do it.

He only had trouble with one bolt, and it just started to round a little, so he used one of those Craftsman bolt out kits made specifically for that situation and it came right out.

Took him all of 20 minutes to have the old downpipe out once he had it up on the lift.

heat has always been my friend when it comes to rusted up stuck bolts, get the nut side nice and red, and it should come out, i do the tighten it first and then back it out,( work it back and forth some) just to clear up the threads and then crank it out.

a plumbers soldering torch works just fine too, just takes longer to get it good and hot. you can pick them up for under 20 at home depot.

if you have been spraying it with pb blaster or what not, just watch you dont catch the car on fire, if wet that stuff can flair up. watch out for your wires and stuff.

now go get them bolts lol!

yup sounds good, chances are the bolt will be shot afterwards anyways, id replace it regardless how it comes out, they lose their threads to rust and get weak.


and try to heat the outside of the nut, not the bolt shaft its self, what you want to happen is for the nut to expand and free up the bolt, so work the heat/flame on outside of the nut.

one of these. WK2301 Propane Torch Kit-310769 at The Home Depot

read the reviews on that to funny.

I had one of the rear bolts of the crossover break off, I now have one bolt and a c-clamp holding it on lol

I've found this to be true most of the time.

Crossover:
Loosen say the front crossover bolts about 1/2 a turn at a time (alternating) and that typically keeps excess pressure off either and allows them to come out. If they start turning..that's the game. See heat for tips.

Heat, it works wonders for getting bolts out. Here's the part where you become a man. Take the car out for a drive, nice and warmed up. That's right, use the engine to heat up the parts for you. Now take out the couple of bolts you think are the worst, or at least get them moving.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

I've found this to be true most of the time.

Crossover:
Loosen say the front crossover bolts about 1/2 a turn at a time (alternating) and that typically keeps excess pressure off either and allows them to come out. If they start turning..that's the game. See heat for tips.

Heat, it works wonders for getting bolts out. Here's the part where you become a man. Take the car out for a drive, nice and warmed up. That's right, use the engine to heat up the parts for you. Now take out the couple of bolts you think are the worst, or at least get them moving.

I swear when i took my Rear mani and PLog off was less than an hour after driving a couple hours and that and pb blaster made me think what is everyone crying about. Till i went to shimmy my rear header in LOL. That rear header getting in the hole took longer than everything else in the whole process

As long as its not the manifold bolts, do the ol break and replace method.

If its the manifold bolts, with the motor cool, spray them thuroughly with ATF/Acitone mixed 50/50 about every 30 minutes for 2-3 hours then give them a try. Should work great, but make sure not to get that mix on your paint.